Never try to smuggle drugs; some countries like to prove how tough they are on drug trafficking by arresting young foreigners and throwing away the key until lots of money is paid, to ensure justice while theoretically appeasing Western governments. Japan has its own reasons for being tough on drugs which includes its (only subconsciously remembered) distribution of drugs in China in the 1930's to weaken societal moral cohesion. Occasional Japanese TV documentaries show typical foreigners entering Japan, then the customs authorities, who help to valiantly defend Japan from outside infection, find hidden drugs. The edited film clips show that the more foreigners they check the more contraband they find. Sinister music plays in the background; the foreigners appear to be harmless and normal, but look what they are bringing in and how they are hurting Japan.
For travelers going anywhere. Guard your passport and don't give it away if it is unnecessarily asked for; it belongs to you and your government. The easiest way to prevent you from leaving a country is to deprive you of it. In a separate spot keep a photocopy of your passport's inside front page plus a couple of extra passport-size photos and some money. Never keep all of your valuables in one spot. Carry vitamins (travel adds stress) and emergency medicines. Someone back home should have a copy of all your important numbers so that credit cards, ID, etc. could be quickly canceled and later replaced after just one phone call from you while still in some distant, unfamiliar city. If caught in a bad situation in some foreign country (held by either thugs or corrupt police) don't panic but mention the friends you are supposed to meet up with a little later. If they'll just let you go everything will be fine (don't make threats to them about your rights). If necessary express to them that you wouldn't think of ever mentioning this little "misunderstanding" to your embassy and the national authorities later.
I've traveled all across Japan to most of the largest and medium sized cities at least 2 or 3 times, both as a tourist and doing research for my books. You're probably one of those "big" foreigners, huh? Approach strangers slowly and politely. If your physical size is large, and the Japanese person can't speak English, then your attention may not be welcome (this is particularly true outside of the major cities). If possible, write down the word(s) which you need to communicate. Traditionally, Japanese students have studied written English for 6 years, but quickly shy away from trying to hear or speak the language. Show the person (preferably someone in uniform) the word(s). Whether it's the name of a destination or a simple phrase like "headache - I need aspirin" the written words then form succinct, "decodable" written English info; just like what was studied so hard during all those years of school. (Uttered sentences have all those confusing fast syllables - which untraveled tourists like to keep changing each time, rather than exactly repeating the exact same abbreviated phrase precisely and slowly.)
Several years ago while I was bike riding through a small European town a painful piece of grit got stuck in my eye. I stopped at a nearby restaurant but couldn't get them to understand that I needed a mirror. I tried to "act" the word but this too failed. Finally, thinking of associations I said "toilet, please" in the local language. They laughed and guided me in. Beside the toilet was a sink and mirror, just what I needed! Simplifying or skipping grammar entirely (to facilitate the communication of meaning) is a learned skill. Europeans (with their several small countries and languages packed close together) are generally pretty good at this. But I've noticed that Americans and Japanese usually cannot simplify their sentences or make associations, condensing meaning. They've never had to learn how. Americans then often speak louder when repeating (which could be interpreted as becoming aggressive or pushy); Japanese though tend to get nervous or to use more polite (i.e. more complicated) language, which again doesn't help with better communication. Keep it simple, repeat slowly, don't use slang, be ready to act out the meaning or try to write it down.
A couple of other basic do's and don'ts - you'll be changing footwear all the time. Try to keep all those slippers and shoes straight. Bathroom slippers are different than household slippers. If you don't know how to take a Japanese bath - ask your hosts. They'll be relieved and happy to explain ahead of time. The bath water itself is shared following each person and must stay clean. In this respect, maybe if you think of it as a relaxing "soak" instead, this would be helpful since the cleaning (with a shower & rinse) is actually before the bath part. As a guest, you will probably be invited to take a bath first. Again, you should be showered and clean prior to the bath, there should be zero soap bubbles in the bath water for the next persons.
Japanese cuisine is excellent; try new foods and trust your hosts (except when they keep pushing more and more sake on you) to show you how to eat these nutritious and very tasty (once you get used to them) foods. Banks open late and close very early. Also, Japan's mass transit machine stops running at night. By 10 or 11 PM you should be aware of how far you need to travel and make sure you have enough cash with you as most bank automated teller machines will have long since shut down for the night and many places don't take credit cards or travelers checks.
A computer programmer friend from India told me a couple of interesting tales. He once tried to give his hosts a nice gift from India. But they reacted with some anger and were mostly uncomfortable, wanting to refuse the gift. He couldn't understand what was wrong. Some time later he learned that an expensive gift (which is nicer than theirs to you) can make the Japanese person feel that they've lost face. Do not bring expensive gifts. A variety of interesting small gifts, particularly for the kids, which indicate forethought are more than adequate. Perhaps even tourist-type but practical stuff with the highly visible name of your city, country, or some famous nearby university, etc. The other instance occurred on his first day in Japan. He lost his wallet. It contained not only his money and ID but also the phone numbers he was supposed to call later. As soon as the attendant at the train station understood what this foreigner's problem was he wanted to know the exact time of the train and about which car he was in. It took over an hour, but the wallet was found intact, routed back and returned to him. My friend was simply amazed (and relieved). But then for him to catch a taxi on an average day is another matter. Unfortunately his dark skin must make him invisible to many Japanese taxi drivers as they zoom past.
Western language teachers usually receive much better treatment (we complain more easily than Asians, and usually more effectively) yet my small publishing company received several letters from distraught, cheated teachers complaining of unpaid salaries, reneged promises, and occasional uncivil treatment. There's a myth that Japanese companies don't fail, so there is very little protection for anyone (but especially foreigners) when the Japanese employer has financial problems or even fails completely. Ignoring such problems doesn't make them go away. I hope Japan learns this pretty soon.
Language school students: try to pay quarterly. The school often wants fine upstanding solvent individuals to pay 1 year in advance. Just say "no" to this, please. Culturally speaking, modern Japan has a real hang-up about money. This will be discussed in the business section below, but realize that money is power. Also, Japan is a hierarchy which isn't averse to using power. Once your money belongs to them the attitude of some schools changes markedly. Pay quarterly and put the rest in a postal savings account or similar. If it turns out that getting your money up front is all they're interested in, find a different school. Finally, the non-refundable "Application Fee" for them to simply consider your application, ranges from 0 to 30,000 yen (about $300 US). Check with a few different schools in the area you're interested in before even applying. Not a bad gig, up to $300 in the bag and then telling the student that s/he's not good enough. Who's next in line?....
University exchange students - you've landed in heaven. Japanese students study years to pass grueling entrance exams while you slide in a side door. Take advantage of the opportunity - but respect the privilege you've been offered. You'll get to meet and make good friends with Japanese during the one interval of relative relaxation in their structured obligation-bound lives. But three small pieces of advice for you: first, don't ask your professors too many questions in class. (Confucius says that this is not a sign of a good student, but of a bad one.) Also, make sure friends and family back home use your complete, unabbreviated address along with "c/o" using your host family's name. And, altruism as such is rare in Japan so your Japanese host family (usually arranged quietly, via the institution) will allow you to stay for a reason. Almost every exchange student I've met has had the same problems with their host families - hierarchy and incurred obligation.
The student just needs a place to stay, but the Japanese family often has other ideas. It is harder for Western women of course, because "naturally" women are lower in the hierarchy, I'm sorry to have to write this. At first a guest is treated with great honor. Then as you become a temp. family member you're expected to make efforts to fit into the group. At evening bath time, males first, etc. Your family will expect you to speak in and teach English to them. (Some host families have the idea that this is the main reason the exchange student is staying there.) Plan for this, but try to appeal that sometimes you'd like to practice Japanese too. Hopefully you won't be a trophy to show off, but some families expect to begin regulating the foreigner's life, just as they would any other family member. Independent thinking itself is sometimes a "punishable offense" in this highly dependent, peer pressure regulated society. Appeal, do not confront. Remember that you are below the parents. As they help you adjust to life in Japan they may feel that you are incurring obligation. True altruism is rare anywhere of course, but more still in a society which has no philosophical or religious basis for it.
For prospective English language teachers it seems that there are endless rumors and stories. Get information about the JET (Japan Exchange Teaching) Program coordinated overseas by Japanese embassies and consulates; a 1 year, renewable contract to teach in junior and senior high schools. It's an excellent program which is giving many students across Japan their first chance to actually meet and interact with "a foreigner." Separately, arriving on your own, I would say that a flexible native speaker with a college degree who wouldn't mind living in a medium sized Japanese city should not have a problem landing a teaching position. But the demographics are against you as we enter the 21st Century. There are many less Japanese entering college at this time. The post-war boom's "20 years later" effect means that the number of 18-20 year olds are low at this time. So there are less open teaching positions.
I had chosen to live in the center of Japan, in Tokyo, but there are plenty of other million person population centers which are extremely livable. Bring books to read and trade (domestic TV videos too). Speaking at least a little Japanese will be important for day to day living. For English teaching realia, bring a map of your city, a couple of local bus schedules, and a few take-out menus. Easy to pick up now, great for in-class use in Japan.
However smaller cities with only 1 or 2 language schools are often different. Count 'em, one circle of friends till you leave, one hang out, one convenience store, one heck of a boring lifestyle (unless you're conversational in Japanese). An Australian friend was lured to a small town in Hokkaido, nearby skiing and hot springs. Oh and "what great timing!" they said that they were just then planning a special trip to Australia for students, maybe she could lead it. An apartment, no problem. She took the bait and left Tokyo, "temporarily" moving into someone's living room up there. She soon learned from other foreigners in town that this particular school was notorious for its broken promises. The special trip promise and illusive bonuses had been used many a time before.... She angrily left after several months, returning to school in Australia. I was sad that there was no one who could help her and no one in a position to alert others about this bad school.
There are altogether a couple of thousand language schools across Japan, of all different persuasions imaginable. Some are run by Japanese, and some by foreigners who were in the right place at the right time in the mid-1980's or 1990's.
It is almost impossible to upgrade your visa status from within Japan (unless you are a foreigner of Japanese descent). So if you come to first travel around and look for a school, then to study or teach - don't buy a plane ticket to Japan. That's right, instead buy a ticket to Hong Kong or Seoul, etc. ... which happens to "stopover" in Japan twice. In other words you'd land in Japan, travel (with your JR Pass) for a couple of weeks, find a good school, travel some more while the paperwork gets ready, store your stuff, fly out of Japan, change your visa status overseas while buying a bunch of needed cheap household goods, then fly back to Japan to begin at the school, extending the far side of the plane ticket back home out for as long as possible. Call different airlines, they vary widely regarding luggage and time period restrictions. There are at least two airlines which allow the return flight to stay open for up to 1 year; one which will allow 3 full items of heavy checked luggage; one which allows almost no checked luggage at all unless you pay extra, etc. If you're temporarily moving to another country these factors become much more important than they usually are for the average discount-ticket seeking tourist.
Since most Japanese persons can read basic English okay having Japanese on the reverse side is not as important as the size being amenable for the Japanese salaryman or bureaucrat to tuck your card away neatly at the conclusion of the meeting. Often the business cards sit out in front during a meeting, each card treated with the respect accorded the individual. Of course then you'd never write a note on or fold someone else's business card. Cards are respectfully given and received, not flipped across a table, etc. (Students also commonly carry such cards to give to others.) Institutional identification and your respective title are both carefully considered by the recipients. This man also carried with him small, lightweight gifts from Germany. Not expensive gifts, more like thoughtful tokens. These are important symbols; bring an ample supply.
Money and ideas - "possession is nine tenths of the law." I can't tell you how many foreign firms have been taken advantage of by Japanese companies. Remain polite but guard your: ideas, business contacts, future plans, and money with your life. This is no joke. Japanese businesspersons are often vague with outsiders, sounding positive while holding back on a final decision. Perhaps the cheapest way to get a new technology is to buy a small foreign firm which is having problems, perhaps they want a tour of your plant which will reveal the processes and the machines you use, perhaps they're also discussing plans with your competitors, looking for the weak link or cheapest price. None of this is illegal, but be careful what you discuss and disclose. Never assume confidentiality if yours is but a medium sized entity. And if you are with a small company, you do business in Japan at your peril. Small businesses have many weaknesses; they're easy prey. ...It is however possible to do business in Japan, just as it's possible to put a man on the Moon, but neither is very easy to do.
JETRO (Japan External Trade Organization, with over 75 offices worldwide) publishes a variety of materials including a set of books entitled: "The Challenge of the Japanese Market: How 144 Foreign-Affiliated Companies Succeeded." It is rather expensive, but includes glossy 2-3 page overviews of major foreign companies and their successful integration into the Japanese market. It's part propaganda, but an important resource nonetheless.
A good short book which gives an introduction to Japanese culture and customs is, "With Respect to the Japanese" by John Condon. Another useful, inexpensive book which could save some foreign corporations millions before they try to enter the Japanese market is, "Japan as We Lived It," edited by Bernard Krisher. In this small book there are several practical examples of doing business in Japan and dealing with the Japanese. Included is Krisher's own detailed coup in becoming the first journalist, Japanese or foreign, to interview Emperor Hirohito one-on-one. It also includes reflections by Ezra Vogel on reactions to his previous, "Japan as Number One" -of which the Japanese misinterpreted his whole intent of trying to get them to avoid some of America's mistakes, thinking instead that they'd won some prize conferred by a Harvard prof. And I love the stories in, "Japanese in Action" by Jack Seward; he originally wanted to call his book, Japanese in 25 Hard Years, but his publisher talked him out of it, unfortunately; -lots of true stories of interesting events and practical Japanese language examples. The book, "Japan Inside Out" by Gluck, at some 1300 pages is several books in one. It is a town by town personal tour guide, a running historical commentary giving the cultural background on everything along the way, while never getting boring for those who want to know just a little bit more. There are many other excellent titles out there, these are a few to look for.
Four WWW (Internet: world wide web) sites which contain good info in English related to Japan and also links to lots of other places are below:
For about two decades after World War II in American culture, Superman stood for "Truth, Justice, and the American Way...." The confidence this embodied has significantly declined since then, but culturally coupling this "American way" idea with the virtues of truth and justice only took a few decades and a couple of successfully fought world wars in order to develop. (Before World War I the US felt generally inferior to the older European cultures, often looking to the Old World, etc.)
Let's thus go back a little further in time and similarly consider Japan's mission to liberate Asia during the (1930's & 40's) Pacific War (a.k.a. the Great East-Asian War) as a Divine one; a fight to free the "yellow man" from the overbearing yoke of the colonially dominant "white man." Keep in mind - a couple of millennia since the last waves of migration to Japan, a continuous royal line going back into pre-recorded history, and no successful invaders in all of (Yamato) Japan's recorded history. Japan was truly, in fact a unique island nation having few direct contacts with the outside world even after becoming industrialized and joining the rest of the world as a power to be reckoned with.
What people experience as children affects them for their entire lives. To use an extreme example, we know that abused children have trouble adjusting later in life and don't trust others easily. Now imagine a trauma experienced by an entire generation of children; imagine how it could consequently affect an entire society. By the end of World War II, 50 years ago, all of Japan was completely exhausted. Food shortages were critical in much of the country with horrible consequences for the population left alive. The children of that time remember terrible hunger, scary American military planes high overhead, and their parents' dreams collapsing; Japan was defeated and "invaded" for the first time in its history.
Of course many countries suffered terrible physical damage, but psychologically Japan seems to have still not yet recovered. The fathers and brothers returned home but many preferred to remain mostly silent about their experiences, only passing on the conclusions that war is very bad and destructive and must be avoided in the future. (Details not needed as long as this older generation is still alive.) In the 1970's and 80's these children from that time had grown to become Japan's business leaders, still mentally fighting for survival and enough food to go around. The shared memory of trauma reinforces itself. Japanese grandparents today admonish their grandchildren to finish every grain of rice in their bowls and to be thankful for it. (Considering this, is it any wonder that Japan has fought so hard against importing rice, with the vulnerability it could cause in the future? Exchange students, you too had better finish your rice each day or you risk building up silent anger in your host family.)
Nine years ago I made a couple of Japanese friends in the U.S. One thing led to another, I traveled around Japan as a tourist twice and subsequently moved to Tokyo (5 years ago) as a computer programmer for a Japanese company, planning to live here for 2 years for business experience. My company in the US was collapsing as I escaped out the door after 7 years there. It was time to change. I reluctantly leapt.
When I initially moved to Japan as a computer programmer (Autumn 1990), it was during the heights of the "bubble economy." After a half year as a "salaryman" living in front of a computer screen day and night (they actually put bunk beds in the office for the convenience of myself and 2 Japanese programmers), I began maneuvering to try to live in Japan ... rather than in front of a computer literally all the time, which was driving me crazy. My "lack of loyalty" was greeted with shock and sadness, but soon I was part-time (for another half year with that company) and able to take some (more) Japanese classes, start teaching English a couple evenings a week, and I began writing for a local monthly magazine called, "Tokyo Today." It was a small magazine. I was soon bumped up to (the unpaid position of) Cultural Editor. And I had business cards to prove my illustrious (unpaid) position! I wrote a monthly column, usually a page or two, for two years. It was valuable experience which allowed me to begin meeting people involved in writing and publishing in Tokyo. By the way, Tokyo Today (which has since passed away) was one of about a half dozen local periodicals for foreigners (in English) in the Tokyo area. In other major cities across Japan there are about another half dozen or so. A few are stable and long lasting with excellent articles; many barely creak by from issue to issue.
For the past three years, while still working other jobs, I have poured my heart and soul into trying to start a small service business. It's called "Tokyo Central." The idea was to open a small info center and offer a variety of needed services and coffee, all in one location. But, sob, I could never get past the initial stages. I published four books, started a national English quarterly newsletter (Tokyo Central Quarterly), and had my sights set on opening an office. My friends, both Japanese and foreign, who gave invaluable advice, funds, and assistance, are the ones who I have hurt the worst. I was foolish to try to do business in Japan, on a business level. For a small business (not tied to a bigger conglomerate or under government sponsorship) it almost can't be done.
Yes, there are many foreign businesses which have become successful in Japan. But the important distinction here is that none of them have succeeded based on their business acumen alone. No, rather I think you'd find that it was a combination of things which allowed success, some of which have absolutely nothing to do with business. It's kind of like telling a skier that it's okay to test his or her skills by going down Japan's long steep slalom course. But first they have to chug a couple bottles of sweet hot sake and take off that thick parka. No ski poles allowed by the way, it's one of our customs, so we'll hold those for you. Oh, and did we mention the white-out conditions? Well it's pretty cold so we'll be waiting in the lodge below. If you're still not down by tomorrow morning we'll come looking for you. Yes, we'll see how good of a skier you are on our course. Just because you're a good skier in other countries doesn't mean that you'll be able to be a good skier in Japan.
When a foreign entity fails to penetrate the Japanese market the typical response here in Japan is that the company - "didn't try hard enough." -What does this mean?, "didn't try hard enough." Let's think about this. Why would a multi-national entity with good products/services and offices in several countries, come to Japan, set-up operations and then "not try hard enough?" Over time I have come to understand that in Japan success comes through (my own invention here) "bullying & begging." My strong words are to emphasize a point. This culture is based on hierarchy, with no assumption and in fact no hope even of what is commonly termed "equality" or "fairness" as we know it.
When a foreign entity fails to penetrate the Japanese market the typical response overseas is that the Japanese government and affected Japanese companies (potential future competitors) were "unfair." Hmm, now just where does this Western notion of fair-unfair come from? I believe it ultimately derives from the Western, monotheistic cultures, namely those descended from Judaism, Christianity and Moslem beliefs. These religions have taught us basic assumptions about the world we live in. Oh sure, we're very secular and educated now and all, but these underlying beliefs still affect us deeply whether we realize it or not. Justice and equality are based on the presupposition that there will be "justice" in the universe someday. But let's look around. When a lion runs down a wounded antelope the lion and its pride have dinner. Never mind the antelope's family. Is a drought fair? Is AIDS a form of justice from the Creator, when it infects babies or hemophiliacs? Fairness, ...hmm, an interesting concept. Perhaps such beliefs are just human inventions, or I should say Western perceptions which Asians for the most part strongly disagree with.
In the Eastern cultures we have the flexibility and balance of yin and yang, etc. I don't wish to oversimplify, but the point here as far as doing business in Japan is that -of course- it's not fair. Nothing is considered "fair" in life and I think that many Japanese just can't understand what foreigners are complaining about that trying to do business in Japan is "unfair." If the foreigners "naively" make it "too easy" for Japanese companies to get established overseas, that's their problem. These foreigners are so naive when you think about it. (Telling the truth, or being simply honest - how "unsophisticated" can you get?) But the other side of this is that equality, truth, and justice are high standards to aim for. Many countries don't even try. Countries which do are often judged by harsher standards. Achieving true fairness is not automatic (and has never happened for long yet!), but some cultures have risen above the level of the jungle and brute strength, or at least are trying to. ...Well, but allowing foreign entities into Japan involves presumed risk, since they're coming because they want something.
Americans especially shouldn't forget that in the 19th Century it was England which championed free trade and kept the sea lanes open and clear of pirates. Many Japanese know that America had numerous tariffs then, protecting its fast developing domestic industries. One hundred years ago Europeans often complained about how hard those damned Yankees worked, and for low wages to boot! The trade imbalance was temporary though. Once America became more secure economically it opened and joined other nations as an equal in trade and commerce.
Japanese rarely receive reports of improprieties caused by Japanese against foreigners. Self-criticism and openly revealing past mistakes are not high among virtues in Japanese culture. Instead Japan is hyper-sensitive to perceived foreign criticism and to (real or imagined) transgressions committed by foreigners against Japanese. This occurs today and can be seen historically.
Largely forgotten today the Russo-Japanese War of 1904-05 was a pivotal historical event. It was begun with a surprise attack. Japan fought rapidly and effectively. Western leaders were impressed with their daring and sophisticated coordination. Media headlines seized the world's attention. Little (non-white) Japan was kicking the daylights out of the exposed Asian flank of one of the old European Powers, Russia. Some people responded racially, many were dumbfounded, gripped by the reality of the unfolding events. Maybe whites weren't so automatically "superior" after all. This set a precedent! After 18 months the Tsar remained incensed though humiliated militarily. Simultaneously Japan's resolve was quietly crumbling from within. The war had been so costly that Japan's treasury teetered on bankruptcy. Both sides desperately needed peace though neither could admit it publicly. US President Theodore Roosevelt ("Walk softly but carry a big stick.") entered the fray and - despite numerous voices of skepticism - extracted an imperfect though workable peace treaty. In top secret consultations via telegraph cables with Russia's Tsar Nicholas and Japan's Emperor Meiji, the Russian and Japanese negotiators came to terms of peace.
T. Roosevelt later received the Nobel Peace Prize. European statesmen
toasted the surprising diplomatic success. The Americans, though still
an uncultured lot, were now taken more seriously. Soon, in 1906 China felt
reinvigorated in asserting its rights in the world and Russia experienced
an attempted coup against the Tsar. All these things (or similar) could
be somewhat predicted as subsequent repercussions. But one reaction which
Teddy Roosevelt never did understand was the severe anti-American rioting
in Japan. The Japanese negotiators (in direct consultation with Emperor
Meiji the whole time) had failed to win a financial indemnity from the
Russians. What was reported in the media in the rest of the world was vastly
different from what was perceived within Japan, among average Japanese.
Rather than celebrating a clear victory (from a war they had started) with
tangible territorial prizes, the Japanese instead focused on how they'd
been "cheated" from getting everything they had wanted. Outsiders had to
be blamed. Roosevelt's long time Japanese acquaintances and diplomats were
not able to explain to him the baffling disparities being displayed by
Japanese public opinion vs. reality. In Japan the inaccurate perception
of foreigners taking advantage of Japanese has a long and steadily reinforced
history. The (heretical) idea of Japanese taking advantage of foreigners
is steadily downplayed as exceptions. Today such criticism is often called
"Japan bashing" but this term is getting rather worn from overuse I think
so So, I am out on one of my trips around Japan, visiting language schools
and local government offices. I have an edition of my book in hand, I'm
wearing a tie, and I wish to emphasize that my guidebook is to help foreigners
who want to come to Japan to study or teach. In many locales the local
bureaucrats still stare wide-eyed at a foreigner who can speak to them
in Japanese. They've seen such magic acts on TV - but now here's one sitting
right in front of them. (There are basically 4 responses: 1, avoidance.
Maybe the foreigner will just go away. 2, "I canto speaku Englishu," meaning
that the foreign face is louder than the Japanese words spoken. 3, the
person gets nervous (or sometimes just plain mean...) and speaks quickly,
too quickly in fact. Ah-hah, we knew the foreigner couldn't really speak
Japanese. 4, real communication between adults. Finally.) By the way, I've
found that speaking over the phone is nowhere near as effective as going
directly to an office and politely standing or sitting right in front of
the Japanese party. Over the phone the nuisance of having to tolerate one
of those foreigners is just too much for many Japanese. It's easy to make
an excuse and hang up. The foreigner has no standing; what happens to the
outsider is not his/her problem.
At first my counterparts are eyeing me nervously because they don't
know if I'm above or below them. Important note: this is of vital concern
to them. In Japan you don't just treat people with respect, equally. (Well
personally I still aim to do this, but the locals think differently.) I
pull out my business card. My title is "president" but the company name
"Tokyo Central" has no meaning to them. Hmm, what to do. Invariably they
are still polite up to this point. I politely accept the green tea, maybe
make some remark about the weather or how pretty it is in this part of
Japan. I usually completely ignore their nervousness. After some small
talk as appropriate, I begin to politely introduce either my book or newsletter
or whatever. Meanwhile as the person(s) absorb what I'm discussing they
methodically make a decision regarding my status. This is critical and
cannot be overemphasized! Remember the German businessman mentioned above;
he understood this aspect of Japanese culture very well.
Oh, what a coincidence, I just happen to have copies of a couple ads
regarding my book, maybe a recent article. With these in hand, the decision
on my status becomes much easier for them; they can sigh and treat me as
if I deserve respect - for the time being at least.
We all wear cultural filters. It is very hard, perhaps impossible to
be truly bi-cultural. Yes, persons can tolerate or try to understand people
who are different, that doesn't take much effort. But so far as I've seen
each person must make internal value judgments based on one or the other
culture, and view the rest categorically. Last year I had the opportunity
to sit down and interview one of Japan's most distinguished simultaneous
interpreters for a major local magazine. This older gentleman has interacted
with numerous world leaders over the years and had many a story to tell.
One which didn't make it into the edited print involved a time when a leading
US government official grew tired of the back room bargaining with Japanese
leaders and unexpectedly went public with a speech and admonition that
things simply had to change, Japan needed to open more. This man was there.
He saw the reactions of each nations' news media over the next 24 hours.
To me he emphasized that instead of going public like this the official
should have rolled up his shirt sleeves (and remained at the bargaining
table). He used a particular Japanese term. Such a public display did not
help relations at that time he felt.
I've thought of this story many times since that interview. One, it
clearly shows his preference for Japanese thinking. And it illustrates
basic differences in negotiating styles. Americans tend to want open, understandable
agreements; what's the big secret? Japanese tend to prefer coming to an
understanding quietly. People who are not part of the process don't need
to know the details. Japanese people usually trust their leaders without
caring to know the details. Americans (like me) don't always trust their
own leaders and question them all the time. This fully bilingual senior
interpreter understands American culture very well, but prefers the workings
of his own. On a much lower level, I do the same with regard to Japanese
culture. I try to not be ethno-centric and to look at Japanese culture
as equal to my own, but the "rationed respect" mentioned above is one that
I still have a hard time accepting. Why not just treat all persons with
respect? But Japan's is a very different culture. Respect is earned, forced,
or inherited; there is no presumed equality either individually or for
groups.
The implications of "rationed respect" for a small business should be
obvious. But they weren't to me. Rationed respect means that if you're
in Tokyo with 110 yen and a good small business idea, you can buy the can
of coffee of your choice from any nearby vending machine. The simple fact
is that no Japanese person would even try to start most types of businesses.
A neighborhood ramen shop or hairdresser is different. But manufacturing,
publishing, or indeed most enterprises are almost completely closed to
independent newcomers from within Japan.
Tokyo and Osaka commuter trains are noted for being packed beyond belief
during rush hour. Unfortunately it is also then common for women (and occasionally
men too) to be touched in such an anonymous temporary environment. One
Japanese woman told me that she's "touched" about once a week, but usually
she can't tell if it's on purpose. Sometimes women can tell very well!,
but they rarely make a sound. If a woman did raise her voice, believe it
or not everyone except for the few foreigners on board would look at her
face (instead of the perpetrator's). She'd be breaking harmony for one
thing.
Last month many Japanese tourists carried too much cash when they traveled
abroad. When robbed they usually didn't resist and the pickings for the
crooks were astounding. This month, next month, and the next... guess which
tourist group will be sought after by smart hoods overseas? These tragic
stories rarely reach the ears of police overseas though, instead they're
featured in newspapers and on TV shows back in Japan, proclaiming the many
dangers of venturing outside of Japan.
Japan's value system is one of: above and below, bullies and victims,
no fairness assumed. It is the party "below" which is expected to bend
and (usually) not complain out loud. This goes for women on trains, crime
victims (sometimes), and for small businesses which foolishly venture into
deeper waters where there are bigger ships afloat. Grumbling and exaggerating
about abuses to friends or co-workers is completely acceptable though and
lets off steam (but without resolving the injustice). However don't complain
out loud about "unfair" treatment. The weaker party in a situation should
"expect" it, without "immaturely whining" about it.
My cultural filters encourage me to find things in common with others,
i.e. that really people aren't so different after all. It is easy for me
to generalize that those who follow together in a group without question
are not unlike lemmings all jumping off a cliff together. But on the other
side, group thinking often sees independent individualism as leading to
chaos and anarchy (....I've heard this expressed in various ways in Japan).
There's security and stability within a group. Many believe that people
on the outside of the group are simply different from those inside, this
would tend to heighten loyalty to those inside while lowering empathy for
those outside. Cultural filters deeply affect notions of right and wrong,
fair play, humor, beauty, and a myriad of other human values.
The same event or situation would thus be viewed quite differently by
two persons with partially opposing value systems, i.e. persons wearing
different cultural filters. The cultural presuppositions of seeking (honorable)
honesty vs. seeking (honorable) harmony are often at odds. Putting group
harmony first sometimes requires dishonesty from those below. While (individual)
honesty first sometimes requires a lack of harmony. I think that we can
"agree to disagree" about this one, can't we? No?, and I'm smaller?, oh
well then I misspoke myself - let me instead tell you what you expect to
hear ("tatemae" - false honesty) to maintain harmony, and not complain
out loud directly. Maintaining surface harmony is very important in Japanese
culture. Appeal, do not confront; bullying & begging; the entity which
is above is entitled to take from and bully (though within limits) those
considered below.
I know you're probably tired of all the World War II stuff - but briefly
consider such Japanese attitudes in the light of WW II's Asian victims.
How has Japan usually reacted in the past when asked to apologize or acknowledge
past wrongs? (I believe that many Japanese cannot understand what they're
all whining about, as one aspect of this.) Similarly but on a smaller scale,
I tried to do business in Japan on a business level, patiently playing
by Japan's rules. Unfortunately there's an inherent contradiction: "business
level" and "Japan's internal rules" are quite different. I was an outsider,
and what happens to (smaller) outsiders who get themselves hurt by being
in the wrong place at the wrong time is their own problem, even if it was
"Japan, Inc." which caused the damage.
Imagine a busy, well kept aircraft carrier floating off the east coast
of Asia. It is big and impressive. From the long flight deck we can see
how stable everything is. Smaller ships need to get out of the way. If
they don't, that's their own problem. There is no anchor on the carrier
but it has powerful engines. Somewhere above on the bridge they make course
decisions based on an old reliable compass which still functions quite
well, thank you. Sometimes it's foggy or the seas are rough but steering
is no problem. However no one on the ship seems to notice the constant
slight drifting.
Mikimoto became famous for being the first to discover how to compel
oysters to start and grow the irritations we know of as pearls. It took
him many years of failure after failure during the 1880's and 1890's. He
and his wife were of humble means, running a simple noodle stand. In the
evening after a long day of work he would row out to check oysters seeded
from a couple of years before. All lines were carefully marked. He would
haul the basket up from the depths and find out if the oysters had survived
that particular method and if it had consequently produced any kind of
pearl, one by one. For years he had no positive results: it seemed he was
making no progress. Finally, encouraged by the constant criticism of his
very Japanese neighbors he suffered a nervous breakdown for a short time.
He later resumed his efforts. Some time after this he finally began succeeding!
By about the turn of the 20th century he was getting close enough that
his products "cultured pearls" were well shaped and marketable. Cultured
pearls soon became one of Japan's most profitable exports, and their large
scale seeding and incubation a closely guarded state secret. Mikimoto met
Japan's Emperor Hirohito on occasion but refused to address him by his
lofty titles. The emperor didn't seem to mind but it threw the Imperial
household into a tizzy each time. He even once traveled to America to meet
Thomas Edison, a fellow inventor. The name of Mikimoto, "the Pearl King"
still endures on a select few jewelry stores but he was a man who was far
ahead of his time.
Confucius teaches us that: "The noble man (achieves) harmony without
assimilation; the lowly man (seeks) assimilation without harmony." Confucian
wisdom has permeated much of East Asian culture for millennia. There are
many sayings, one which has been misinterpreted and continues to be spread
inaccurately in Japan is: "The subjects should be guided, but they must
not be informed."
Buddhism which originated in India, entered Japan from China and Korea
in the 6th and 7th centuries, as taught it did much to protect authority
and the state. Buddhist temples are spread across Japan. There are many
devout believers of various sects but many others only visit a temple on
special occasions or for a festival. I once went to a "fire walking" festival
put on annually by a local temple. (A pretty good crowd; it was quite a
spectacle. Even from a distance those coals were hot!)
Japan's native religion is Shinto, its shrines spread across Japan are
easily distinguished from Buddhist temples because of their bright red
color. But Shinto is much more private and some will argue that it's not
a religion at all. Almost every Japanese home has a special place, a small
enclosed shrine. I've noticed in a couple homes that if a car had been
recently purchased the family shrine may then have a representative model
car present in the special family space.
Recently I was working in a small booth during a three day computer
fair near Tokyo. People were lining up to get autographs from a particular
(well known but small) company's founder on items sold. But the flashy
booth across the aisle from us was big, bright ...and loud. The founder,
who is American by the way, asked me to tell them to quiet down (in the
middle of one of their presentations). He had approached them earlier,
to no avail. But having become "part Japanese" I hesitated. They were trying
to get folks to stop and listen of course, but their volume forced us to
shout. Suddenly he was out of his seat. He stepped through the small crowd
and right in front of the shocked young woman giving the presentation and
exclaimed, "You're too loud!" in clear English. A Japanese businessman
jumped out from the other side of a nearby screen and immediately lowered
the volume. Everyone froze and stood there nervously until he came back
to our booth. The short presentation ended a few minutes later, with an
interval before they'd run their multi-media show again.
The founder was away from the area when the aforementioned businessman
descended upon our booth accompanied by the computer show's manager and
others. They were glowering at me, evidently thinking that I was in charge.
I knew what to expect since we'd broken surface harmony and asked a couple
of our Japanese helpers to join in the (one-sided) discussion. The show
manager was furious, his short clipped speech focused on the word "gaman"
("endurance" - expected from those below, it shows good character). The
other booth's businessman smiled, standing behind him. They were positive
that they were above, we were below. Reason as such was not part of the
picture. Soon it was decided that the solution was clear, our booth would
have to move. I/we acquiesced, as long as it was to a good location (as
if we were in any position to make conditions, etc.). I'll tell ya, these
foreigners are so hard to put up with sometimes.... I later joked that
sure, we'd be glad to help the other booth move since they, not we, caused
the problem, but - the volume was back up later and we moved at the end
of the day.
At around the turn of the 20th century there was a Japanese woman who
had been raised in the highest aristocratic circles of Tokyo but later
married a socialist who took her out among the people, as a lowly supervisor
with his wife working in the dangerous copper mines; and he later compelled
her to go to America with him too. Her life saw many changes; her autobiography
is called, "Facing Two Ways" by Baroness Shidzue Ishimoto. It is very interesting
for those wishing to better understand Japanese culture and its closely
held presuppositions (which are rarely discussed with outsiders these days).
One instance she relates was of a visit to a silk factory when she was
a schoolgirl. Silk was an important export of Meiji Japan (just like pearls
were too, a little later) and she got to see part of the process with her
elite class. The many impoverished women slaving away in the plant had
to suffer much (requiring "gaman" endurance) under poor working conditions.
Ishimoto felt pride and happiness that her family was above such conditions.
She felt that she had so much to thank her ancestors for. But for the poor
women she felt little or no empathy or kindred spirit. (By the way, "Facing
Two Ways" was one of the several books closely studied by the Americans
during World War II in trying to understand Japanese culture, preparing
for the eventual occupation and rebuilding of Japan after the war.)
Soichiro Honda was the co-founder of Honda Motors. He is another atypical
Japanese person of whom more non-Japanese should learn. He would sometimes
wear brightly colored shirts and didn't care about the peer pressure and
prejudice of those who judged by external appearances. On one occasion
in the 1950's a visiting foreign businessman had accidentally lost his
dentures in an outhouse toilet. Mr. Honda realized the predicament but
would not make the subordinates in his small company do anything which
he himself would not do. The next morning he went into the outhouse, stripped,
and climbed down inside to locate and retrieve the lost dentures. That
evening he held a big party for his amazed guest (and amazed co-workers).
Sake flowed freely as Mr. Honda made everyone laugh heartily by dancing
all around the room with the carefully cleaned dentures - displayed in
his own mouth! One particular book, "Honda Motors" (by T. Sakiya) was published
in the 1980's, and the hubris of the early chapters shows it. But if you
can get past this it is a fine book which teaches a lot about business
practices in Japan and how Honda Motors grew and prospered (not because
of but in spite of Japan's internal hierarchical expectations).
The founding and growth of Sony, Inc., is detailed in "Made in Japan,"
by Akio Morita. In the 1950's, even as Sony engineers were tinkering with
those newfangled transistors to invent a new kind of miniaturized transistor
radio ... they had great difficulties raising capital largely because the
presumption of most Japanese people then was that the old, established
Japanese conglomerates would soon take over production of the most profitable
products. Smaller (albeit innovative) companies would simply be gobbled
up. Sony survived anyway and has obviously prospered. However one could
argue that Sony survived not because of, but in spite of the Japanese climate.
Back in the good old days, before the late 1940's when the American Occupation
mostly broke them up, the old "zaibatsu" (interlocking family-owned conglomerates)
were extremely powerful working hand-in-hand with government, controlling
virtually all major production in the country. In "Made in Japan," it is
mentioned that the largest four zaibatsu alone held fully one quarter!
of Japan's capital worth.
Fifty years is a short time for a young forest's growth. If the species
is not "shade tolerant" (allowing new trees to get started, under shade)
then there will be no new saplings later coming up through the undergrowth.
The tall mighty timbers can be lashed together to hold everything up for
awhile, but there would still be eventual doom for the entire forest ecosystem.
Several months ago, after a long day's work, sitting in a neighborhood
ramen shop, another American (who's lived in Japan some 15 years) and I
had a long discussion starting with office drinking fountains. We moved
from there to elevators and other products. In Japan these things are invariably
manufactured by the big conglomerates. We marveled, because if new companies
can't even get their foot in the door creating niche products, what hope
is there for Japan's future? I'm not talking about tomorrow, or even next
year. I'm talking about 20 or 50 years from now. In Japan, it seems that
the key players are all lashed together holding themselves up, not allowing
the normal course of business growth and the possibility of eventual failure
for them. What will this lead to?
If Sony and Honda were trying to get established in Japan today - it
would be impossible. (Note too that many of the innovations developed by
these two companies in particular have been later copied by other older,
less innovative Japanese companies.) The ruin of war allowed new competitors
to get started in manufacturing and service industries, so the Occupation
could actually then be viewed as a traumatic blessing by breaking up the
old, inherited wealth and encouraging the formation of a new middle class.
But you won't hear this perspective in a Japanese high school history lesson.
The "zaibatsu" laid low then but they have essentially all been reorganized
now to look like modern interlocking capitalistic corporations. But it's
actually just a horse of a different color, isn't it? I mean if Japan's
corporate leaders still don't act like businessmen, with fair competition,
equal market access, et cetera, then something else is actually going on
beneath the surface.
Knowing and keeping in your place are important in Japan. Mikimoto deviated
from the set path and his neighbors felt it was their responsibility to
hammer him back down just like a stuck up nail. Did they cheer on the underdog/newcomer
or wish his success? No, not at all. This tendency is important for foreign
businesses to understand because of the consequential resistance to new
or unfamiliar brand names. On the one hand government regulations can be
costly to comply with. Then, getting your product fairly distributed by
Japan's high-handed middlemen is another obstacle. (And you need to get
the distributors to pay you eventually too.) Finally, Japanese consumers
are very discriminating, easily rejecting products which haven't been properly
introduced to them. It takes time for them to trust a new name. An established,
old brand with a new product, no problem. But a new brand with any product,
problem. It varies according to the item of course, but this same general
pattern occurs time and again.
So your company is opening a branch office in Japan and you now want
to begin hiring a few key personnel. Realize first of all that the biggest
companies and government ministries already have the top Japanese graduates
virtually locked up in lifetime employment. This means that your potential
recruits must come from a limited labor force. And the knowledge that foreign
companies may layoff workers in the future and regularly fail to penetrate
the Japanese market by not trying hard enough, etc., has not been kept
secret from them, in fact far from it. The Japanese media is pretty good
at reinforcing such stereotypes. Your company may be excellent at "skiing"
through foreign markets, enjoy a solid reputation, and like all the other
foreign companies you'll promise that you're in it for the long term. But
we'll see about that. That's right, like a pick-up line in a singles bar
you'll say that your company is "not like the others." Unfortunately though
from the word "go" prejudices have been built in against you and the pool
of competent talent to begin staffing your new Japanese office has been
critically diminished.
For "token foreigners" assigned to a Japanese office - you've probably
landed in heaven. After months of patiently waiting for the proper working
visa to be approved (...just as Japanese do who get assigned overseas)
and hopefully receiving company assistance in finding a good apartment
without undue hassles and multiple rejections for being a "gaijin" you
can go to work in Japan. Register with both national Immigration and your
local city or ward office. High pay, low to medium responsibilities, business
cards with respectable titles.... Man, this is the life. Let's go out for
beer and yakitori tonight! My situation wasn't a gravy job but many of
these scattered corporate positions are. To some degree the Japanese staff
isn't sure what to do with someone who's different from everyone else,
and who probably doesn't plan to become like everyone else, the same and
a permanent employee. At first you'll be treated as an honored guest, later
you'll be expected to become part of the group. Act busy even when you're
not and be interested in meetings even when you're not, be flexible and
read between the lines when receiving a hint. You've been accepted into
a group, recognize that this privilege brings with it unspoken obligations
and responsibilities. Try to cultivate one or two peers as "go betweens"
for (not if, but) when petty office politics flare up around you. Appeal
indirectly and ask for advice, never confront directly if your co-workers
won't be able to understand and correctly interpret such mature behavior.
Go out drinking with them and become part of the group, act trusting and
loyal to the best of your abilities.
Persons in your "in-group" vs. the "out-group," and the belief that
persons exist in hierarchies either above and below: If you come to Japan
trying to do business these concepts are vitally important. Doing something
voluntarily (for the good of all), because it's "reasonable" or "fair"
is different from being obligated/compelled to comply with something. One
small office building west of Tokyo which I often worked in (on a writing
contract, the only non-Japanese person there) had 4 small offices and one
shared restroom where there was never any toilet paper. Never. You always
had to bring your own paper, just as is very common in Japanese public
restrooms. Remember this one! (In private homes Japan has the world's highest
tech privies ever known to man: water fountains, heated seats, mood music...
you name it! But go to a public WC and you've got a different story. Parallels
with society at large abound.)
Anyway I started supplying paper for awhile. I bought an 8-pack or something.
People were using the paper evidently, since this was gone through soon
enough. So I later bought more, then again. It wasn't expensive at all
of course, but I did wonder why I was the only one. They were polite regular
people. Someone was cleaning the restroom on a regular basis, but no one
else would restock, you know, pick up on the idea and return the favor.
After 6 months I decided to put a small sign up above the dispenser asking
for 100 yen (about $1 US) contributions for the toilet paper fund. The
folks in my office (in-group) quickly offered, but do you know that for
the next half year not a single person from the other offices either offered
or contributed a thing toward the "common good." It was an amusing experiment
but finally I took the sign down and stopped buying paper.
After World War I (1914-18) Japan was one of the victor nations. Prominent
in the League of Nations, Japanese representatives made the rounds of the
capitals of Europe and the Americas. But over time many of the Western
leaders grew tired of dealing with the Japanese government officials. They
only seemed to speak up when an issue arose which affected Japan in some
way. That seemed to be the limit of their interests, i.e. whether the people
on the outside ... have enough toilet paper (or whatever...) to go around
is their own problem which they should worry about, not others. It is not
my intention here to belittle what is considered honorable and proper in
Japan, but rather to note what seem to be striking differences, particularly
regarding presuppositions in the West and in Japan. I have come to believe
that what happens on national and international levels between Japan and
other countries is also reflected in many of my ordinary experiences in
Japan. The underlying basis for much of Western law and expected societal
conduct is based upon the abstract concept of "the reasonable man." But
what's considered reasonable and normal conduct in common situations varies
considerably between different cultures.
I see a definite connection between all these threads. Seeking harmony
in the group, loyal lifetime care and employment, a lack of regard concerning
outsiders, the marked difference between a public toilet which doesn't
even have paper vs. a private "le commode extraordinaire," obligation and
peer pressure, and hierarchical authority with attendant bullying and begging.
Contrast this with honesty-seeking individuals who are expected to fend
for themselves while caring for others, think independently, objectively,
and (hopefully) logically, see countries and companies as finite vehicles
necessary for our human pursuits, and usually obeying authority even though
those (temporarily) above had better expect a lot of scrutiny along the
way.
Reasonable, honorable, mature, cultured - individuals and groups in
striking contrast, with much which can be learned from each other. As our
world continues to shrink our potential for development and learning continues
to grow. The strength of harmony is that leaders can more easily and effectively
direct group efforts. Modern Japan's swift rise to international prominence
is a testament to such tantalizing societal coordination. Meanwhile in
individual-oriented societies, when things get bad persons quickly turn
against each other. It would seem, in the short term at least, that such
a less cohesive society quickly devolves into anarchy and chaos. But just
as the strengths of an individual-based society are inexorably linked to
its inherent weaknesses, so a group-based society's strengths and weaknesses
are inexorably coupled together. Under good leaders the followers prosper.
Under bad ... the same group can be motivated to move swiftly and with
little internal dissension.
Except for bilingual broadcast movies and a few sports shows I don't
watch much regular Japanese TV because I often can't follow it well enough.
But with the visual images for reinforcement, the content of a particular
news show or documentary can be very clear and sometimes there's sinister
music - as on a segment showing an American rice farmer which I happened
to catch a couple of years back. He was adding something (a powder) to
the rice going down a conveyor belt, prior to storage it appeared. The
next scene had bright cheery music as we saw happy healthy children in
Japan's Hokkaido, an intro to showing rice farming there. The slander against
Thai rice was even more pronounced around that same time, by the way.
One evening a few years ago I was flipping channels when I saw this
Japanese man holding a hose and pouring water over the closed hatchback
of a recent model American car. I watched. The hatchback was shut but the
water didn't channel around, instead it poured in. My first thought was
that the weather stripping had been tampered with. Why were they pouring
water in and looking so concerned? They showed this scene over and over
- holding the hose above, water just pouring in. The man was expressing
frustration. It seemed to be that here he had ventured to buy a non-Japanese
car and now this happens. The camera never showed the missing rubber strip
(that I noticed), but the important point which seemed to be emphasized
was what happened when you try to wash an American car or if it should
rain. Maybe if he had bought a Japanese car he'd have been safer. This
show had 15 to 20 minutes set aside for this particular "inoculation."
Thoughts are planted, doubts sown, opinions reinforced but then not expressed
directly later. The techniques are simple yet effective. They are also
dishonorable.
It is said that there is no negative advertising on Japanese TV, but
this is patently untrue. The slander and innuendoes are fed via pseudo-documentaries
and on regular news broadcasts. I've seen them. On one Sunday evening last
year, I happened to catch a long segment where they were disassembling
a particular low-priced foreign car and carefully comparing its components
with that of a higher priced Japanese car. Technician-types were on hand
and ready to do their job of disassembly and "objective" analysis. Over
120 million inquiring minds want to know. The way these shows are done
it is no wonder that the trusting Japanese people are reluctant to try
a brand they may not be able to rely on. And what company in the world
could then mount a successful advertising campaign against such "scientific"
slanderous comparisons? Add to this Japan's high susceptibility to peer
pressure and can you imagine anyone buying a product which their neighbors
may look down upon? Take a chance by buying an inferior foreign car and
then become the laughingstock of the neighborhood?, no thanks!
When President Bush came to Tokyo in early 1992 he brought with him
the heads of the Big Three US auto makers. Everyone remembers the night
he got sick, but the evening before that I happened to spot a TV segment
where reporters were asking people on the street if they would consider
buying an American car. The consensus appeared to be that they didn't want
to say anything against them, but they wanted to be assured of high quality
when they buy a car. The inoculations have been effective.
In the New York Times, May 16, 1995, pages D1 & D5, there's an article
detailing a Jeep Cherokee's journey and corresponding climbing costs from
leaving its US factory to eventual sale in Japan. The model has a price
of about $20,000 in the US, but eventually sells for over $30,000 in Japan.
Total transportation costs by rail and ship from Toledo, Ohio to arrival
in Chiba, Japan is about $200 per vehicle. The other $10,000 goes to fees
related to currency exchange and multiple, repetitive inspections, final
detailing, Japanese distributors and compliances with Japanese regulations.
After leaving the control of the foreign manufacturer, Japanese inspectors
and others comb each vehicle multiple times carefully looking for any flaws
or violations of its individual 560 page veritable book of forms and documentation.
(The article mentions that equivalent US compliance documentation per vehicle
fits on about 1 page.)
Who tore out the rubber stripping? Was it the new car owner, the TV
crew, or one of these numerous inspectors in Japan? Separately, watermelons
don't grow in a day, it takes months. How did a TV reporter happen to find
a Japanese farmer with such a meticulously overgrown melon? - on the very
day! they needed the evidence that American watermelons aren't as good.
Were TV crews dispatched that morning with binoculars and told to drive
around the countryside looking? I don't think so. I think that all sorts
of defensive contingency plans have been made and are ready, but that since
Japanese consumers trust their leaders so much - they don't even consider
what is happening behind the scenes. A lack of logical thinking, an absence
of questioning. This leads to chilling conclusions if one knows anything
about Japanese history.
I care about my Japanese friends, but as an outsider there is an invisible
barrier in their minds between them and me. I can give alternate perspectives
but sometimes I can't tell how seriously they're taking my ideas. There
are innumerable examples I could give of bogus or slightly skewed news
stories. In total I've lived over 7 years of my adult life outside of my
native country (almost 3 years in Europe, 5 in Japan) and have traveled
through perhaps 20 or so countries. I've heard most of the criticisms of
the US out there. My college degree was in history, I read a lot, and since
coming to Japan I try to do cross-cultural comparisons when I hear rank
"America bashing."
Japan often compares itself to America. I wish I had 5 yen for every
time someone has said that Japan is a small country. When held next to
the US this is understandable. But compared to the size of most European
countries for example Japan is a good sized regional power with an excellent
infrastructure and superb economic reach. Japanese make important differences
in the world today. Japan is not such a small country. Last century "small"
Britain controlled fully 50% of the world's commerce and resources at the
height of the British Empire.
In around 1991 as America was slipping into recession but Japan's hubris
filled "bubble economy" was still going strong, one Japanese friend whose
opinions I usually regard highly suggested that this signaled the collapse
of Western Civilization. I was stunned. America goes into a long delayed
economic slump, and this means that hundreds of years of Western Civ. is
consequently ending? Another educated friend, about 2 years ago when the
Japanese LDP (Liberal Democratic Party) was breaking up and political alignments
in the Diet were in chaos, said that these problems could be traced back
to the American Occupation and the new Constitution shoved upon Japan at
that time. Maybe America had wanted average Japanese to ignore politics
which would eventually cause such problems to happen. The news stories
which feed such thoughts always (to the best of my knowledge) suggest rather
than overtly state the perspectives they want communicated to the viewers.
For Japanese this is good enough, they can fill in the missing pieces to
make the rest of the internal frame of reference.
Since I've been in Japan the only time this wide disparity between reality
and Japanese opinion has come clearly to the surface was during the Gulf
War. We're talking: dead burnt bodies, groups of scared Iraqi children,
images of death delivering allied military jets, and numerous emotional
editorials. The anger boiled to the surface, I had a few very negative
experiences during that time. In one English class I was teaching (evenings,
in a company, both men and women, about 8-10 members) a particular young
businessman was incensed that I wouldn't just admit what was so obvious
to him. In class discussions I often try to steer a neutral course, explaining
both sides of an issue without committing to either side. Concerning the
Gulf War the best that they'd allow was for me to try to explain that the
news coverage was different in other countries. But this man became so
angry that he wrote a message in Japanese to my school on the attendance
sheet explaining what a bad teacher I was and that I should receive more
training, etc. I saved a copy, it's the only negative feedback the school
ever received about me as far as I know. Sadly, that man never returned
to class but I found the reaction of the other class members illuminating.
Honesty and error correction didn't seem to be important to them, only
maintaining harmony.
The next week after class they all took me out for a big dinner with
lots of beer. They never corrected the errant information sent to my school
but I suppose they thought they were compensating for the situation, restoring
harmony somehow? Perhaps I too was "partly wrong" because I had not agreed
with what all of Japan was convinced to be "true" at that time. I declined
to give them "tatemae" (false honesty) to preserve surface harmony. ...You
know, I don't recall seeing any pictures in Japan at that time of scared
Kuwaiti children from half a year of suffering, perhaps they weren't victimized
as much as Iraqi children were over a few weeks? Or perhaps Japanese media
leaders quietly decided which images to show and which to ignore. The mainstream
Western media reporters in Japan knew what was going on but they pulled
their punches reporting very little about Japan's strongly held internal
opinion abroad. Hmmm. Sometimes it seems that Japan gets more leeway than
other countries, but don't confuse this with the perspectives then communicated
to the Japanese people.
Foreign language teachers in Japan are often the only "ambassadors"
the average Japanese ever meet, so the students bring a lot of questions
to class. Usually they relate to things like customs, climate, or opinions
in other countries, but they can also relate to news items or historical
topics. In this way the foreigner teaches much more than just language
itself. I was teaching English part-time through a particular school giving
evening classes in companies. One day they nervously asked me if I'd take
over a company class which had gone through two teachers already. The company
was from Nagoya which is Japan's fourth largest city but gets few tourists
or other foreign influences; it's a major blue-collar industrial center.
The first night in class (a group of men who had been temporarily assigned
to Tokyo) they were polite at first but later wanted to discuss America
taking (what is now) the southwest US. from Mexico in the first half of
the nineteenth century. Who knows where this challenge came from! I deferred,
telling them that I'd be glad to discuss this once we got to know each
other better.
A few weeks later I drew a map of North America on the board and started
with the Louisiana Purchase of 1803, how Texas was actually its own country
for 10 years, various negotiations with the British, Russians, etc. And
in 1848 gold was discovered in California, and that changed everything
by 1849, as the S.F. 49ers (football team) should know. The class stewed
quietly and didn't like the discussion though because it seemed that a
more simple explanation of America as a bully and other countries as its
victims would have been more clear to them. But for this class's information
I also mentioned that at the same time that the mean Americans were taking
Indian lands the (Yamato) Japanese were continuing their conquests northward
on Honshu and Hokkaido, subjecting much older Ainu lands and erasing their
history as they went. The Ainu are an indigenous Caucasian people who have
lived in Japan for thousands of years. How they ended up so far away from
other Caucasian peoples no one knows. Perhaps, like Gypsies or Jews, they
come from some early Diaspora? (I've met and spoken with a couple of the
survivors in Hokkaido actually.) But most (Yamato) Japanese will never
mention them, and a foreigner who is aware of the history opens what seems
to be a deep dark secret. "Umm, Sensei (an English teacher's title), let's
talk some more about the poor Indians and mean whites in the movie 'Dances
With Wolves' instead."
Nintendo wanted to buy the Seattle Mariners baseball team. A couple
of my classes couldn't agree with the prejudice of Americans who were trying
to put conditions on the sale. I could imagine just from listening to them
how this was being spun in the Japanese media. I admitted that some Americans
are prejudiced against Japan, but then suggested that I thought the majority
only wanted fairness. For example, would Japan have any objections if Microsoft
wanted to buy the Hiroshima Carps professional baseball team? If that type
of team sale to a new non-Japanese owner would be okay without conditions,
then Nintendo should be able to buy an American team, just as there is
cross-ownership between Canadian and American teams and corporations, and
no one raises an eyebrow. (I wonder if T. Boone Pickens might have an opinion
on this?) These classes of well educated Japanese businesspersons who travel
abroad regularly and who should be reasonably well informed about the world
around us quickly changed the subject.
Admitting weaknesses and past failures indicates much more strength
than to not. Actually the US is often too self-critical, but that's one
characteristic which is only clearly visible from outside. The self-criticism
itself is a strength though since it helps address and resolve problems
internally. Clear reporting of individual failure, loss, and catastrophe
helps instruct others, allowing for a high degree of societal self-correction.
But overseas the barrage of negative news coupled with a plethora of American
movies (guns, violence, sex, drugs, corruption...) leads many to presume
that the US is constantly close to the brink of collapse, when almost nothing
could be further from the truth.
Every culture has currents beneath the waves. Showing foreigners on
Japanese TV is often cute or interesting, but few would want a foreigner
living next door to them. Foreign movies, art and music are readily available
across the country. Yet in a different mental compartment the politics
and business decisions made overseas are sometimes portrayed in the most
negative terms. It seems to be a love-hate relationship between Japan and
the outside world. I wonder which side will win, the (rabid) sometimes
violent right-wingers or the (wishy-washy) internationally-minded liberals?
I confess that I can't tell which will become stronger in the future, but
the tension is definitely there. Strong currents are hidden beneath the
waves. In the 1920's during good times Japan superficially emulated much
of Western culture and its trappings. But in the 1930's, following the
1929 stock market crash as times got hard it was the right-wingers who
seized the day. Many of Japan's exports (like silk and pearls) were luxury
items whose markets completely collapsed. Japan needed food for its people.
The same desperate times also led to political upheavals in Spain, Italy,
Germany and other countries. We live in much different times now, but it
really scares me that Japanese consumer opinion today seems to be so easily
manipulated.
To be fair in discussing Japanese TV, it must be stated that the Japanese
media is quick to inform the people of late breaking political and economic
news from around the world. There are some hard hitting TV interviews (and
thought provoking newspaper editorials) with often a variety of foreign
and Japanese opinions on a given topic. And some of Japan's televised fine
arts and nature specials are excellent! They're world class and I hope
that they are translating some of these specials to make them available
for viewing in other countries as well.
This generation and the next which will follow have almost none of the
defining experiences of the previous generation. Standing safely beneath
a very large protective umbrella the young have been insulated from the
rain outside. They can sometimes see the rain falling in the distance but
their parents have shunned the very notion of even describing past big
storms, except to say that a storm can be very destructive and should be
avoided. The young have never been taught the signs to look for when a
storm is brewing and this omission will not be in their favor as it now
becomes theirs to help hold the umbrella and to in turn instruct their
own young. Voiced conclusions, without the information and reasons which
led to them, only last for so long.
High technology is not an end product denoting high civilization, it
is rather a by-product of cooperative efforts which are then copied and
passed on. In fact technology alone makes a poor substitute for civilization.
It's a tool which can be picked up and wielded in any direction. The ancient
Roman Senate sitting on hard stone benches had low technology, Nazi Germany
had high technology, which was more civilized? But learning about history
and other humanities of civilization doesn't pay, engineering or computer
science though does. In modern society's headlong rush for profits and
international competitiveness some of the foundations which would help
ensure a civilized future have been seriously compromised. Businesses are
often expected to neglect such things unless it suits them, but governments
must not.
I originally planned to live in Japan doing computer programming for
2 years. I have had no right to be here except that Immigration has allowed
me a temporary working visa, renewed each year. Government offices have
their hierarchies and rivalries. The bureaucracy is strong in Japan and
anyone trying to do business here will have to deal with several national
and local offices. One key difference in dealing with Japanese government
officials though is that the concept of the "public servant" hasn't caught
on yet, not even in theoretical form! I'm pretty sure they've never heard
of Thomas Paine before, let's put it that way. In Japanese government today
there are some very professional bureaucrats but some tyrant-wanna-be ones
too, who are sure that they're above and that companies and the people
are below.
The majority of foreigners coming to Japan have many of the exact same
cultural difficulties upon arrival. The Japanese government publishes various
pamphlets to help with this, but really they just don't have the perspective
to understand what non-Japanese are experiencing. And the homogenized information
tends to gloss over things which they'd rather we'd not worry too much
about, like prejudiced real estate agents who won't rent to non-Japanese,
for example.... Up until a few years ago it used to be commonly stated
on the bottom of many apartment listings: "No pets, no pianos, no foreigners."
When I began writing for a magazine in Tokyo I went to Japanese Immigration
and informed them, since their rules require this. I was under an "engineering
visa" and writing about Japanese culture and local festivals was outside
of this scope. But since I wasn't being paid they merely noted this and
said they weren't concerned. Later when I began writing books I went back.
They didn't say much to me. A few of the national ministries have ordered
various copies of my books over time, but I've never been aware of any
negative repercussions.
As when I lived in the US I've tried to get a little involved in my
community in Japan. I was a volunteer Tokyo Citizen Monitor for a year,
filling out periodic surveys. I've also written for the English (and via
translation, Chinese) editions of the community newsletter which is regularly
published by my local government office. And I periodically sweep the walkway
in front of my apartment. (Make sure your Japanese neighbors see you do
this at least once in a while. Sweep, put your garbage out on the right
days, and don't be noisy at night. Your good example will help open doors
for others in "our group.") Recently I was quoted on NHK Radio regarding
a few things I've written about earthquake preparedness for foreigners
in Tokyo. They didn't pay me, but I did get a complimentary 500 yen telephone
(debit) card after the taped interview.
A few months before beginning publishing (early 1992) I contacted the
company which had a virtual monopoly on foreign book distribution in Japan
at that time. I'll disguise its name as "Yoyo K.K." (The K.K. is a Japanese
abbreviation similar to, Inc.) I made an appointment with a senior manager
and told him about the type of books I wanted to write. No one had yet
made a language school reference guide for foreigners - he was positive
about the idea. I had the definite impression that if completed they would
be willing to distribute such guides. Of course sales overseas (before
persons arrive in Japan) would ultimately be most important, but I had
to start somewhere and in other countries such narrow "niche" books could
easily get buried. Full international distribution would take years, requiring
3 or 4 editions to develop.
There is a glaring disparity between the number of Japanese students
studying in Western countries compared with the number of Westerners enrolled
in schools in Japan, it's still something like 40 to 1 these days. Among
high-technology researchers the disparity is about 15 to 1. That's a lot
of valuable knowledge flowing in one direction. I saw an opportunity to
start what I felt was a needed small service business which would help
pave the way for other non-Japanese. But the effort was nipped in the bud,
as described in this section below. (Over time I had already decided that
I like people more than machines anyway, so this seemed like a positive
way to redirect my career while still using computers as tools.)
In June of 1992 with a lot of help from friends I completed two sister
books, the: "Tokyo Language School Guide" and the "Osaka Language School
Guide." I had to pay a Japanese printing company the equivalent of almost
$10,000 US up front, but after months of research and hundreds of inquiries
to schools in the Tokyo and Osaka areas, the books were done. The image
of a green bamboo forest was on the covers. I went directly from the printing
company to Yoyo. The aforementioned manager met with me again, looked through
the volumes briefly then politely declined. His company was not interested
in my two books.
I was surprised and confused that they weren't interested in distributing
my unique books. There was no risk to them since the copies would have
been fully returnable. I had paid ten grand and devoted a lot of effort
only to see this monopolistic company not honor its implied word. Was there
a hidden agenda? Unbiased book distribution as such seemed to be of less
importance than other unspecified, though very real goals. My first meeting
had been over tea upstairs in a small conference room. But with books in
hand I waited down in the lobby for the manager. As we stood there together
he soon declined. Today I believe that he duped me. First encourage the
"naive" foreigner. After he commits and pays for his trust, quietly pull
the rug out from underneath him. I wish I didn't believe this but I think
the decision to make me go away empty-handed had been made before he ever
saw my brand new books. But at that time I didn't give up so easily.
In most countries bookstores tell distributors which titles they want.
The distributors usually highlight certain titles, but bookstore managers
make the final decisions on what they want. In Japan this is not the case.
A handful of distribution companies direct various segments of the market.
A particular Japanese bookstore is to some degree dependent upon by the
distributor(s) over it. For the limited market of books in English in Japan,
that meant: Yoyo. (Fortunately in the last year 1994-95 another company
has also started distributing English books. It's too late for my company
but hopefully others will have a better chance in the future.)
I put on my best suit and approached leading Tokyo bookstores directly.
They were reluctant, preferring to buy all books through the distributors
as is their custom. I was able to persuade a few managers to buy 10 or
20 copies each on credit at a favorable discount and fully returnable if
they didn't sell. They all sold of course, there wasn't another English
school reference guide for Japan available. I soon sent hundreds of sample
copies around the world to Japanese embassies, tourism offices, major universities,
etc. And I started working on a third book (a combined second edition)
which was to be called the: "Japan Language School Guide" (JLSG).
My team completed the JLSG in January 1993 and the folks at Yoyo were
surprised to see me still alive. I had survived their first trick (from
my perspective today) and had evidently come back for more (as I was soon
to experience). The combined, expanded book listed over 500 schools in
major cities, the advice had been mostly rewritten and expanded, it had
a few illustrations and a color cover. They ordered 1000 books in February
1993, fully returnable with payment due in 8 1/2 months. I again had to
pay all costs up front (including related advertising, of course); more
money sunk into my project with still almost no return up to that point.
There are over one million non-Japanese now living in Japan. Most are
Asians, long term Chinese or Korean descendants. But Westerners (35 to
40 thousand( rotate quickly, often only staying for 1 or 2 years. Many
come for academic reasons, so based on this and other marketing info (and
the fact that there was still no competition) I reasoned that I should
be able to sell a few thousand copies or more each year if I could get
the books out where folks could see them in bookstores and libraries. The
break even point to just pay for the initial printing itself (negatives,
binding...) is about 2000 copies (less with some paid advertising). I don't
want to bore you with details, but Yoyo knows these typical numbers much
better than I; they had ordered 1,000 this time, zero the time before.
I traveled all over Japan introducing my books (hoping to eventually
open my info center "Tokyo Central"). One commonly asked question which
really threw me for awhile was, "Who told you to write this book?" It was
a question and perspective which I just couldn't relate to. I'm an adult,
get it. Adults make their own decisions. I asked my close Japanese friends
and finally began to understand what these types of questions were implying.
In Japan, since everyone is dependent, under a hierarchy then I must be
under a hierarchy too. A few local government officials looked at me suspiciously
when asking this and related questions. Maybe they thought I was a spy
of some kind?
Because I was a foreigner who didn't know the unwritten rules so well
I think that I was tolerated much more than any Japanese person would have
been, but the eventual results were the same, failure. I was "nondependent"
upon entities over me, and therefore both an outsider and one who was of
no consequence. (So much for trying to do business on a normal business
level.)
Yoyo K.K. withheld my money. They just didn't pay. I sent reminder invoices,
but to no effect. And they knew I couldn't sue since the Japanese legal
system is designed to discourage "frivolous" lawsuits, (and some companies
have been known to hire "yakuza" (gangster) thugs to go and convince a
small plaintiff to withdraw a case quietly) the consequence being that
a small company in Japan has almost no recourse against an unscrupulous
big company except to beg or appeal to them. This has the dual effect of
maintaining surface harmony while promoting hierarchy.
I (foolishly) continued working on my books and organizing data, assuming
that my greatest danger was if a major publisher noticed my idea and then
came out with a similar book. The big publisher would probably win, which
is what usually happens anywhere. I also learned that some people were
not sure if I was aiming at language schools for learning Japanese or for
teaching English. That was an oversight which I didn't catch, since we
were aiming at both to begin with. Most Westerners end up studying some
Japanese even if they come to Japan primarily as foreign language teachers,
or vice versa for full-time students, they end up teaching part-time. Schools
crossover, some specializing in one or two languages, others offering the
widest variety possible. I chose to list as many "language schools" as
I could locate and then tried to accurately identify their specialties.
I again sent out hundreds of samples and thousands of brochures. I started
receiving a few orders from North America and Europe and later queries
from individuals asking about university programs or summer intensive programs.
Except for limited info in a few obscure Japanese government publications,
there seemed to be a dearth of quality information regarding a wide range
of educational programs in Japan. And I've since learned about a few dozen
scholarship programs which often don't even get enough applicants each
year, but I never got to organize and publish information about them unfortunately.
In November of 1993 we had completed the fourth book, the "Japan Study
& Teaching Guide, 1994 Edition" (JS&TG), renamed (from "language
school") and expanded to include a dozen university programs and assorted
others. It was hot off the press and ready for distribution. I met with
a couple of big distributors in the US, had sold the back cover and a few
internal pages of advertising to defray costs, and fully believed that
I was going to finally start breaking even. I had put everything into my
efforts. My friends (and friends of friends - a few of whom I had never
met!) had helped immeasurably. I couldn't promise them much except honorable
mention in the front of the book and hopeful future returns if the whole
thing should finally make it. To maintain momentum I had quietly borrowed
money from a few Japanese and foreign friends. But at ten grand in cash
per printing, coupled with Yoyo's dishonorable money grubbing - even the
necessary low budget printing and basic promotional costs were strangling
me. ...There was still no direct competition, but I had to get the books
out where people could see them in order to spur interest and sales.
American banks declined to consider my small business for loans since
I'm outside of the US Japanese banks also wouldn't consider me, I'm not
Japanese. The SBA (America's Small Business Administration) never answered
my letters. My name is not Michael Fay, I haven't been convicted of any
crimes, and I don't have a rich father, i.e. I was virtually without external
assistance of any kind. Some foreign embassies are approachable and helpful
to their constituents, but the US Embassy seems to be too busy with the
big boys. Efforts like mine fall below the radar scopes. I think Yoyo knew
this would be the case and methodically took advantage of my weaknesses
accordingly. They had sold about 800 of my books (JLSG, the 3rd book) in
about 8 months, with several major book shops selling out (but my title
was not restocked). Yet in spite of these figures and still withholding
payment for the previous edition (in clear violation of their dictated
contract terms) they only ordered 690 copies of the new edition. I've never
understood this number and as time has passed I've asked them repeatedly
but they've never felt inclined to give an adequate response.
If a company can sell 800 books in 8 months, why not order 1200 (at
least) for the next 12 months? My books were slowly getting more recognized.
And I know that at least some of the 200 or so copies eventually returned
to me never made it out of Yoyo's warehouses in the first place. Possibly
if distributed better my guide could have sold even more copies during
that time period...? First someone needs to know that a book exists and
be able to flip through a copy before they can consider it for possible
purchase. I had opted to begin an annual cycle. Schools change regularly
and I was still collecting a wide assortment of information to organize
for future publication, so I planned to follow with a 1995 edition, etc.
Tragically my working visa came due for annual review in October 1993
(right as my new book, JS&TG, was going to press). My visa status was
closely scrutinized. I was honest with the Japanese Immigration officials,
which was a big mistake! We had a few meetings, I brought supporting letters
from a few Japanese professors and businessmen regarding my work and underlying
motives. ...I had everything at stake. I don't know what they had in my
file nor what they discussed, if anything, concerning my case between our
meetings. It was horrible timing for me and my doomed efforts but I was
forced to relinquish my working visa. They told me to prepare to leave
Japan and stamped a 90 day temporary visa into my passport so I'd have
time to finish my activities before leaving the country.
Just for the record it should be noted that non-Americans dealing with
US immigration and customs officials don't exactly have a picnic either.
We each need checks and balances, this includes police, school teachers,
priests, or anyone else in a position of authority. But the foreign persons
who must answer to another country's immigration laws often don't know
the rules, don't know their rights, and don't know how to complain to whom
when treated poorly. Except for those few persons who are assisted by good
counsel the vulnerable foreigner is caught in an undesirable position with
officials who don't have to answer to anyone after exercising power over
them. To a non-native these officials loom in the foreground, but they're
rarely corrected or audited by the rest of their respective governments
even though the damage they can do to foreign relations over time is enormous.
The rumors circulate among the foreigners, echoes getting louder as each
single abuse or mistreatment fans out to at least hundreds of others.
When Mao Tse Tung was a young lad he was lucky enough to be able go
to college in far off America. But he returned to China angry at the prejudices
he had experienced. Many years later after he had become the leader of
one-fifth of the world's population, a particular story which he sometimes
related on his radio broadcasts was of a time when he visited a Christian
church in America. A bitter woman in the row behind his had exclaimed,
"What's that Chinaman doing here!" He never went back of course. I've used
this story a few times to Japanese audiences, trying to impress upon them
the responsibilities we hold as advanced nations in assisting the young
international students now in our care.
If you think about it for a minute, there's an inverse proportional
relationship between the poorer the country and the more elite the few
students who are able to go out and study abroad. Yet these are often the
most befuddled least "cultured" ones, trying to function and learn in a
third or fourth language on a tight budget while experiencing the most
difficulties trying to make new friends in the host culture. They are extremely
intelligent and learn very quickly (especially when they experience hypocrisy
over and over). Quite literally the future of world relations 20 to 40
years from now rests in our hands today. In US colleges it is uncommon
for most American students to sincerely reach out to their slightly different
peers from abroad, but if they did they would learn many things about the
world which their ivory-tower-encased-book-learned politically correct
professors could never teach them in classes.
Anyway, to cut my story short - Yoyo finally paid me half for the third
book (JLSG) after over 1 year and the rest a half year after that. For
the JS&TG (my fourth & last book, of Nov. 1993) they delayed any
payment at all until May of my last full year in Japan (1995), paying the
rest in mid-July
1995. They know that I'm broke, disillusioned, and out of business now,
so it's okay. We had had a crucial meeting in February 1995. I brought
an interpreter-consultant to make sure I completely understood and emphasized
that I had tried to be very patient and flexible, wishing to do business
in Japan under Japan's rules, without making waves. (Of course if you're
dealing with a monopoly in the first place that's another good reason to
be flexible.) At that meeting they confessed to "a few misunderstandings"
which is typical, and promised some payment soon thereafter, which they
later reneged on, again. They also told me on the side that if I did ever
make another book they'd only be interested in distributing 300-400 copies.
Hmmm. Their own past sales indicate they could easily sell more. What kind
of distribution company actually intends to sell "less" salable product
each time? Something different than normal book distribution is going on
beneath the surface.
I feel that if I had pressed too hard for payment the book distributor
would have claimed that I didn't know how to do business properly in Japan
and punished me accordingly. But since I was patient and appealed calmly
they took advantage of this too. Each situation would require different
excuses but achieve the same results for them, they make money while I
lose money. The word "misunderstandings" then could actually be interpreted
as, "planned vagueness in order to gain an eventual advantage." In certain
situations it is nothing less than this, don't be deceived. The politeness
may indicate deference, but it could alternately mask treachery or deceitful
prejudice. In the monotheistic-derived cultures dishonesty is discouraged
enough to inhibit it from blossoming into its full flowering of sophistication,
but this is not true everywhere. Please remember that vagueness is expressed
for a reason, and the underlying motives may not be good or polite in any
way.
The blow dealt by Japanese Immigration really hurt me. What should I
have done? I had been subsidizing my small business efforts by teaching
English, doing odd writing jobs and some computer programming, giving presentations,
etc. But trying to find legitimate work in Japan without a proper visa
... I found myself as an "illegal alien." Meanwhile my books were selling,
mostly in Japan but a growing trickle overseas too. We received inquiries
and orders from well known universities from around the world. And I was
getting letters and faxes periodically asking for advice about coming to
Japan or for help from teachers and students already in Japan. They were
asking me for help ... but I couldn't even help myself. It's a funny world
we live in, huh? Every 3 months I had to fly out of Japan and return to
renew a 90 day holiday visa, gambling that they'd let me back in each time.
I quickly lost the best contracts supplying my regular income and even
though I was able to regain a working visa in November of 1994, I have
not recovered financially. In fact I still owe a lot of money to friends
who trusted me and believed in my efforts.
For my last year in Japan (until a couple of months before the first
edition of "Japan: a Country On Planet Earth") I kept busy editing quarterly
catalogs and newsletters, doing computer work on contract, teaching, etc.,
hoping and waiting. But I've stopped that now, I've got little left to
lose so I decided to concentrate on formulating and writing this report.
Now I've got to now give up on the peripheral stuff and find a position
which will allow me to spend the next several years repaying my debts.
The bad guys won. Yoyo made a small easy profit on my guidebooks while
their actions simultaneously ensured my eventual bankruptcy. Perhaps they
consider themselves smart and me naive, but can their ancestors really
be proud of such dishonorable conduct?
In 1701 the Shogun's chief of protocol was a corrupt, high-handed official
by the name of Kira. A regional samurai leader, Lord Asano had reportedly
declined to pay Kira the customary bribe resulting in a clever deception
by Kira. He instructed Asano incorrectly on an important ceremonial point.
Asano became angry after falling for the trick and suddenly drew his sword
within the Shogun's palace in Edo (now called Tokyo), which was an act
punishable by death. Asano was consequently compelled to commit ritual
suicide ("seppuku", commonly known as hara-kiri). Lord Asano's retainers,
47 samurai wanted revenge for Kira's unpunished deceit, but he was too
strong to attack directly. The men quietly plotted to meet again then disbanded,
pretending to fall into lives of dishonor and debauchery. They told others
that nothing could be done anyway. People were shocked and soon all despised
them. Then, late one night almost two years later they gathered, swords
at the ready. The 47 "ronin" (masterless samurai) charged past a few surprised
guards at Kira's residence and caught him. They didn't rest until they
had taken Kira's severed head to their master's grave which is still located
in southwest (Edo) Tokyo (at Sengakuji). The news swept through the capital!
Their patience and true loyalty had shown through. "The Tale of the 47
Ronin" is one of Japan's most famous, teaching a host of virtues: loyalty,
warrior ethics, careful planning, and patience. They are often held up
as role models. When facing a powerful but corrupt, high-handed, deceitful
enemy who attacked without just cause in the first place, one must plot
carefully in order to have the best chances for success.
I know it's impossible for me to ever get even with Kira, errr, I mean
... Yoyo, but failing that I wish to both publicly expose Yoyo's corrupt
business practices and to warn others about the dangers of trying to do
normal business in Japan.
A couple of years back Yoyo bought one of Tokyo's largest English language
monthly magazines, which I'll disguise as: "Tokyo Jeritol" (TJ). TJ was
a very good, well read magazine, much larger than "Tokyo Today" where I
was still writing at that time. And to Yoyo's credit they did not disturb
the editorial department, in fact TJ still puts out very good newsworthy
articles. But immediately after purchasing Tokyo Jeritol, Yoyo autocratically
lowered the number of Tokyo Today copies they wanted for bookstore distribution
each month. (I believe that Yoyo did the same to at least a couple other
well known English monthly magazines at that time.) This would hurt an
affected publication in bookstore copies sold, potential new subscriptions,
and soon also in advertising revenues. I know several foreign writers in
Tokyo who were aware of Yoyo's obvious conflict of interest concerning
this situation, but no one could stand up to Yoyo K.K. If you go to a Tokyo
area bookstore today, there are fewer local magazine titles and Yoyo isn't
interested in taking on new ones, I know this personally from editors who
are trying! ...Halfway through the month, in most bookstores carrying English
publications you'll still find a big stack of Tokyo Jeritol available,
but few others available for purchase. This crime remains unpunished, Yoyo
remains unrepentant.
You and your group (which may include a combination of both foreigners
and Japanese, working together) must go up against all outsiders. This
is (to the best of my understanding) how it works in Japan. Don't expect
much empathy, understanding, or fairness for its own sake. These things
derive from a different value system. But a recent exception seems to be
to let a few selected big name foreign entities in to join Japan's status
quo and make handsome profits, almost then becoming protected "foreign
zaibatsu" in the process. They rake money in hand over fist and soon get
quiet about criticizing Japanese business practices. This may lower overall
trade deficits but it's unbusinesslike in nature, i.e. they may be business
entities all right but they're not succeeding based on their business acumen.
That's a big difference. Anyway, for the rest of us the "slalom course"
is still the only option available, which again is as unbusinesslike as
a rigged ski course is for testing good skiing ability.
If you decide it's worth the risk after reading the books recommended
in this report and consulting with others, move slowly, adapt and invest
cautiously, but push with all your might. Expect outsiders to resist, or
to at least be apathetic to your efforts. Your pain and difficulties are
not their problem. They feel that no one owes it to you to give you a chance,
to try to be fair. There is more of a cultural tendency to push down or
crush an upstart than there is to cheer on the little guy. If no one has
"told you" that you should lift your head up, then it's awfully presumptuous
to decide to do it yourself. Politeness to outsiders yes, voluntary fairness
or seeking the common good, almost no chance I'm sorry to say. Empathy
is not one of the hallmarks of the Japanese character; what happens to
outsiders is (based on my business experiences) simply unimportant. Unless
someone above them creates an obligation for the underlings, they'll not
be concerned.
The problem of dealing with a monopoly or oligopoly of any kind is two-fold
as it manipulates the market. One, the small businesses under it live or
die at its whim. Two, the customers under it are (consequently) eventually
then given less variety and/or quality of product. Without real choices
and normal business cycles that area of a nation's economy is quietly subverted.
A monopoly/oligopoly combines the worst of both government and business.
First you're not given a choice (government), second their motive is profit
(business), and third they don't have to answer for their actions (yikes!),
until they either go too far and have to strategically retreat for awhile
or until broken up by external forces.
In dealing with Yoyo I eventually had to figure out on my own that the
company was not so much of a book distributor, but instead a book regulator,
deciding (within the limits of not getting caught) which publishers and
titles could succeed in the market if sales followed distribution and which
would be regulated, held back a little just to see what happens. Give a
few false excuses, delay, add a touch of vagueness, defy numerical targets,
and then pretend that there was a misunderstanding all along. Hey, if it
works they can later say that the outsiders were simply naive about the
intents of the whole process. If deception is considered a strength rather
than a character weakness, all the rules of doing "business" subsequently
change. I'll only write this once: managed international trade, inc. What
does that spell?
Please use my experiences - and don't make the same mistakes! For big
businesses, realize that there are many ways for the Japanese media to
inoculate the country against you if they so choose. You can't see it on
the outside because usually people won't tell you why directly, (they'll
make some unbelievable excuse instead like: foreign oranges are too big
for Japanese stomachs, or that Japanese snow is not the same as snow in
other countries so your ski equipment wouldn't sell in Japan anyway...),
meaning that your products may have a difficult time entering the Japanese
market in the first place. For medium sized businesses, realize the dangers
involved and that what happens to you is not important if they can merely
use you or go around you after finding out what's needed to do so. For
small businesses, I can't recommend anything except for the narrow band
of local language schools which have been allowed to get started and a
variety of restaurants, but even many of these have the implied requirement
of a Japanese partner or spouse.
There are two foreigners now trying to start a particular food importing
business. They've got a great idea and are importing quality products.
Their advertising looks good too. But ... after a couple of successful
shipments, Japanese Customs is now starting to question them and delay
more each time. I know what's going on - testing to find out if they have
any friends in high places, etc. Of course they can start doing business
in Japan. In response to previous criticism of Japan, foreigners can now
"get started" all they want - but whether they'll be allowed to ever become
self-sufficient or to turn an actual profit is another matter. The new
way ends up costing foreigners a lot more.
In the book, "Kempei Tai: The Japanese Secret Service Then and Now,"
by R. Deacon, it is reported that there are an estimated 10,000 industrial
spies out and about in Japan today. (What happens to people in other groups,
outsiders, is their own problem. If true then there would be zero inhibitions
about spying on them.) A distant branch office is a conduit of information.
The best covert information is obtained when the target has no idea it's
going on in the first place. (Professionally done covert operations sure
aren't bragged about in the media either, by the way. Going public is a
sure way to make future operations less successful, of course.) During
remodeling it is easy to hide a bugging device in a wall, or to penetrate
later via existing phone, fax and computer connections. It's simple to
branch in at some junction either within the building or on the way to
the substation, if it can be done discreetly. And fax or computer data
is ideal; the written words then form succinct, "decodable" written English
info. Faxes usually have full person to person addressing right on top
too. Of course any international (or local cell phone) calls should never
be assumed to be totally private. If they bounce off an antenna or satellite
almost any interested party out there could casually monitor the transmissions.
Get PGP or another encryption program for your computer data and e-mail.
Deacon reveals a couple other facts which I'd like to mention. Everyone
already knows that America illegally detained Japanese-American citizens
during World War II. But America was not the only country which committed
this unfortunate act. Even with close ties to their native country as almost
all Japanese emigrants abroad were still first or second generation, Japanese-Americans
who happened to be in Japan after the outbreak of hostilities in December
1941 were immediately detained and soon interned by the Japanese authorities
for the duration of the war. A few were allowed out and used for propaganda
purposes, but the Kempei Tai kept a close watch over them too, with consummate
tailings and bugging. ...Ultimate loyalty was an important virtue to Japanese
back then, it was not a good time to be a Japanese-American.
Also, in the 1930's it was common for even high ranking Japanese officers
to toil away in key lowly overseas posts as servants or similar to infiltrate,
observe, and report back. Deacon laments that some events in East Asia
at that time were so well distorted by propaganda that humankind will never
know what truly happened. Speaking as a student of history, this is disturbing.
History repeats itself the worst when people have not learned its lessons!
How can we learn from past mistakes if we can't know what really occurred
in the past? In the 1930's Japanese fishing vessels off California's coast
always seemed lost and "broke down" often; they did repeated depth soundings.
The Americans scoffed at the "obviously unintelligent" Japanese, while
the Japanese servants and fishermen couldn't have cared less about the
opinions of outsiders. What was believed and said about them was simply
unimportant.
Before I moved to Japan 5 years ago an older Vietnamese-American friend
sat me down for a cup of tea one day. She was concerned about my increasing
interest in Japan and told me how poorly Japanese soldiers had behaved
when they held sway over her native country for a few years long ago. She
could compare them with both French and American soldiers and their attitudes.
My friend quietly concluded by telling me that Japan had "no heart." When
she said that I was stunned, I could think of no reply. On occasion I've
remembered what she said. Basically she was right; but I do disagree with
the over generalization, because each person is an individual. In fact
I believe that there is an untapped well of Japanese volunteers out there
who need more Japanese role models and encouragement. There are many Japanese
persons who are caring and considerate without being told to treat guests
honorably and without expecting something in return (just as Mikimoto did).
Honda-san also was a unique individual, very different from the stereotyped
generalizations. More are out there I know but it's very hard for them
to just lift their heads up and look around.
It is important to recognize that the relatively few Japanese who have
foreign friends are not at all average. I often have to read through what
my Japanese friends tell me and explain (or sometimes cloak from me) to
try to get an understanding of what's really happening inside. Very few
Japanese persons can view Japan objectively as - a Country On Planet Earth.
They're often too wrapped up in the value system and general way of thinking.
And if a foreigner sounds critical there is a strong automatic reaction
to become defensive and vague, or worse.
The French aristocrat Alexis de Tocqueville spent only 9 months in the
U.S. in the 1830's before later writing his still quoted classic, "Democracy
in America." From his vantage point as an outsider looking in he accurately
identified key cultural aspects which often still ring true today. Actually
many of Tocqueville's conclusions were very negative as he looked down
upon that young experiment with democracy, but his analyses were based
upon facts and logic.
Your humble American writer has been in Japan now for but a short 5
years, but that's long enough to have learned at least a few things ...
which I can now pass on before throwing in the towel. Mostly good, some
bad (since I deviated from the set paths and got summarily hammered back
down like a nail sticking up), but it has been a learning experience I
must say. I mention Tocqueville because I know that any Japanese reader
(though this is written for non-Japanese and would require massive restructuring
to be palatable to a Japanese audience which) would first criticize that
I haven't been in Japan long enough, so there. But I know that if I had
spent 30 or 40 years in Japan (as Seward did, author of the previously
mentioned "Japanese in Action") my observations would be dismissed for
some other reason. Each situation would require different excuses but achieve
the same results, the foreigner's genuine constructive criticisms could
be ignored in favor of the group's internal consensus. Reality and reason
take the back seat and are not allowed to try to drive from back there.
It seems appropriate to add a couple of notes specifically for Japanese
readers. Especially since I am sensitive to Japan's sensitivities. I apologize
for my bluntness in this report. Hmmm. There is a saying in English that
someone who is standing in the middle of tall thick woods "can't see the
forest for the trees." In other words, being too close or too involved
in something makes it almost impossible to view the whole picture accurately.
With this in mind it is logical to conclude that it is not Japanese who
would have the best view of Japan, but foreigners. Even someone who's been
in another country for only 9 months or 5 years can deduce some cultural
aspects accurately. Please consider such opinions. Think about and use
them. Some of Japan's central government bureaucrats and business leaders
with their self-interested opaque power amassing tendencies, care much
less about Japan's well being & future than some of your tolerated
guests from abroad. This is simply a fact. Also please remember that it
is your friend who tells you what you need to know rather than what you
want to hear. When a dentist works on your teeth (something you can't do
yourself) is the intent to hurt you or to help you?
Earlier I mentioned Gulf War reactions in Japan. Let's use this episode
to reinforce a few of this report's contentions. First, Japan's bitterness
was contained internally. The one "below" can fume to friends and colleagues
all s/he wants, but don't complain or whine out loud. Appeal, yes; confront
honestly as equals do, no. Honesty is less important than harmony, or at
least keeping the appearance of harmony on the surface. And then what did
Japan do at the end of the war? Japan's elected officials approved some
$10 billion in payment to the victors. The people were very angry about
the "gaiatsu" (external pressure) and the stretching they saw from their
elected officials. But the visible representatives hold little actual power
within the national government as a whole. In Japan, elected officials
appear on TV and come and go, the bureaucratic leaders in the ministries
stay in the background and stay - in power.
Dr. Masao Miyamoto spent over 10 years in the US both studying and later
practicing psychology. Returning to Japan a few years ago he landed a coveted
position with the Japanese Ministry of Health and Welfare. He experienced
the long hours at the office, bullying bosses, and lots of peer pressure
with its attendant expectations of conformity. Dr. Miyamoto's subsequent
book based largely on his experiences in the national health ministry which
is titled, "Straitjacket Society" got the bureaucrats hopping mad. He's
since been fired. In the book he discusses the fact that even in the Diet
(Japan's Parliament) questions and answers are routinely prepared ahead
of time, form without substance. There's the appearance of questioning
the bills which are often put forward by the very bureaucrats who will
later administer them, but few serious challenges (or the real existence
of a separation of powers in the first place).
What is information? What is it for? Should it be released freely to
allow the individual to decide, or distributed down more smoothly on a
need to know basis to guide conclusions which may have effectively already
been reached? When communicating, a person automatically chooses how much
to be a conduit of info vs. acting as a controller, regulating what's disclosed
and how directly it's stated. If your Japanese interpreter thinks this
way (controlling how much you know, guiding conclusions) and feeds you
filtered info, you've got a problem! Right now Planet Earth desperately
needs more non-Japanese translators. "Our group" is at a tremendous disadvantage.
More foreigners need to be allowed to live and study in Japan, just as
Japanese have been doing overseas for many years.
Cultural crossover - some Westerners who came to Japan as teenagers
have internally rejected their native value systems in favor of Japan's.
It can go the other way too (note Dr. Miyamoto), but be aware of this possibility.
And for businesses realize that it's possible for your Japanese office
to quietly and harmoniously start rejecting or twisting instructions from
overseas. It's a strange bastardization, but if harmony and local group
loyalty become the prime virtues then all the rules change and you'd better
start quietly auditing while coercing them back into line. If it's happened,
don't expect them to voluntarily return to reason. The underlings will
need obligations forced upon them. Remember that respect is rationed in
Japan. If not inherited, it must be earned or forced. It is the strangest
thing to talk to a person with a foreign face and perfect English but who
has adopted Japanese thinking (to the exclusion of Judeo-Christian derived
thinking). Controlling emotional expression becomes very important, honesty
less so. Harmony is important, dissension and questioning is strongly discouraged.
Edwin O. Reischauer once referred to Japan as an "economic animal."
General Douglas MacArthur once stated that in the community of nations
Japan is "like a 12 year old child." Both men did so much to help and protect,
but Japan still claws at and pouts about both of these quoted remarks,
all the way to the bank. But speaking of banks, we know that Japan's financial
system has serious unresolved hidden flaws. Harmony is a feel good virtue
but reality (a friend of honesty) shall eventually assert itself. I hope
Japan is able to deal with the problem without somehow inventing blame
against America for causing it in the first place or something. ...It wouldn't
surprise me I am sorry to say.
As the post-WW II generation of Japanese becomes more assertive combined
with its distorted historical perspective we can expect increasingly bizarre
Japanese reactions to international events. The international media favorably
reported Japan's swift anger at France's Pacific nuclear tests in late
1995. But one could easily argue that France's tests were much less threatening
than China's however Japan's internal public opinion was swift and extreme.
A separate case is the unfortunate Okinawan girl who was raped by American
soldiers. Within weeks this atypical incident brought into question the
whole Japan-US defense treaty. Well orchestrated, if one knows in advance
that an American trait is to admit wrongdoing and recoil.
The conventional wisdom is that Japan has joined the modern world and
couldn't possibly go fanatically insane again. In rough drafts of the first
edition of this report I cut out several unnecessary tangents. They seemed
inappropriate, wandering, or too mean by my proofreaders. But I want to
re-add one now, it's abbreviated:
History repeats itself. Cultural characteristics continue down through
generations; stating such may not be politically correct but it's historically
accurate nonetheless. Two generations back tens of thousands of young Asian
women, even girls, were lured or forced into prostitution; organized mass
gang rapes lasting for months or years. Women who contracted diseases were
put to sleep. The "comfort women" were horribly used, killed, and callously
forgotten. (Did Japan admit wrongdoing and recoil? Just a question....)
By the 1980's Japan's economy was booming. Soon foreign women were coming
in to add variety to Japan's entertainment scene. They were even auditioned
in American and European cities. A few photos and maybe a short video could
be sent ahead separately. They'd arrive in Japan, unwittingly surrender
their passports to their new yakuza (gangster) owners, and find themselves
in one of three situations: a good nightclub with excellent pay; or secondly,
they'd find their work contract not legally enforceable (in Japan) as successive
compromises proved it meaningless, i.e. merely a tool of deception. This
could even mean forced prostitution with little or no help from Western
embassies (unless they had rich or influential parents). Or thirdly, a
select trickle of beautiful women were sold for fantastic profits to destinations
where they'd never be heard from again.
Not unlike their grandfathers there is strong evidence that Japanese
organized crime has been at the forefront of this quietly conducted heinous
trade in "new age comfort women". There's simply too much circumstantial
evidence and it's heartbreaking to imagine their plights. But the tactics
and methods constantly shift of course. As I understand the current crop
is coming from Eastern Europe. Japanese "businessmen" are tagging along
behind the international modeling circuit which is scouring these recently
liberated countries. The young white women there are beautiful, poor, and
naive - perfect. Won't anyone rise to the defense of these innocents? Should
the Japan-US defense treaty be called into question over this?, or are
the unnumbered lives of these easily deceived, disposable sex slaves (from
a variety of countries) just not important enough? Make them wild promises
about great pay in Japan, maybe even sign a contract or give the outsiders
a personal guarantee or two, then quickly get them onto a plane or into
a controlled hotel. The rest is easy. Private aircraft are much different
from commercial runs, and most countries have customs checks for arrivals,
not departures. Touching down on the other side (in some distant corner
of the world) is simplified if the local officials know how to accept bonuses
and promotions. This is happening - right now - as you are reading this.
Japan is changing and evolving quickly. I sincerely respect the hard
work and long term planning of the Japanese. There is so much wisdom poured
into important projects and the Japanese people have good reason to usually
trust their postwar leaders. But democracy (a recent import to Japan) requires
the periodic maintenance of a well informed citizenry who gets involved.
If the Japanese people abdicate the need to audit leadership decisions,
no one will be able to make up for the damage which could result. ...Even
the best of constitutions and laws are susceptible to subversion. The subjects
should be guided, but they must also be informed! Please consider this
as the voice of one concerned citizen who pays just as many taxes to the
Japanese government as my neighbors do, through income deductions and the
national sales tax, etc. My tax yen (a la "tax dollars") help to pay for
buses, street lights and even new brooms to sweep the halls of the Diet
Building. So I'm entitled to offer a little helpful, constructive criticism.
Mind you, I don't wish to break harmony, just hoping to insert a little
reality here and there, honest.
100 years ago human prejudice in the world was worse than it is today
I believe. One reason it's less is because Japan, a non-white nation, started
becoming successful on the world's stage. Think about the ripple effects
through metropolitan centers and over time. Japan had to carve out its
own future, against the odds. Japan has made a few mistakes along the way,
but then what nation hasn't?
There are 3 kinds of prejudice: 1, out of ignorance or misinformation.
2, out of meanness or hate. 3, as a result of mistreatment. In the Western
US where I'm from, there are many prejudice people. But I think that much
of this derives from underlying ignorance. They don't know no better and
have few experiences with folks who are different from them. In Japan's
countryside there are a lot of similar right-leaning folks who have almost
no experiences with non-Japanese. They're not mean at heart, they're going
on what they've learned so far. They need more interaction with civilized
people who are different yet respectable in character. For the third group,
well life is not fair, sometimes not at all. I can't preach that forgiveness
is easy, but as a white guy living in a non-white nation I've learned that
there seem to be a few prejudiced people out there of all different colors
and backgrounds, no matter where you go. And for non-white foreigners it
is invariably harder in Japan.
A few years ago Tokyo was running out of phone numbers, 7 digits weren't
enough. Applying some wisdom, gaining consensus, and looking long term
they added a "3" or a "5" to the beginning of each 7-digit number so that
as of midnight on January 1, 1991 all phone, fax & computer numbers
in Tokyo's (03-) area code are now 8 digits. North America's phone number
grid could be similarly fixed. With 2 digit area codes spanning the continent
(i.e. up to 99 possible areas...) and 8 digit local numbers the metropolitan
areas in the US and Canada would be better served, without multiple (3
digit) area codes cutting up the big cities. We're never going to need
less phone & fax numbers, so why not do this kind of a one time fix
now rather than later? Let's copy what Japan did in this case.
Japan's mass transit system is one of the wonders of the modern world!
A one to four kilometer walk to the station in the morning and the same
walk (or bicycle ride) back in the evening. Who needs to go jogging? And
unless you already own two boats (or one boat, a dirt bike, and a snowmobile
or two...), who'd need a three car garage? I always have a book or magazines
with me to read on the trains. Some people bring their Walkmans and listen
to music. Companies usually pay for the monthly commuter passes. Students
get a discount. You can get on or off anywhere in between as often as desired
with the pass. Drink as much as you'd like tonight because no one has to
worry about driving or traffic accidents.
One morning a few years ago I was staying in a friend's home in Fukuoka,
southwest Japan, on the island of Kyushu. I got up at 5 am, shaved, bought
a can of coffee and a "bentoo" (prepared meal, like a box lunch) at the
convenience store, and made it to the subway station by 5:36 to catch the
first subway train which got me to the central (Hakata) station at 5:51.
At precisely 6 am I was already seated and ready to doze as the morning's
first 12-coach shinkansen (bullet train) prepared to shut its doors and
head north to Tokyo. I awoke later, gliding smoothly through the countryside
at about 200 kph (120 mph) and had my coffee and breakfast. After a few
stops in major cities along the way we rolled into the middle of downtown
Tokyo at 12:15 PM, having traveled about 1000 km (600+ miles), almost half
the length of Japan (the rough equivalent of: Atlanta to Philadelphia;
or Rome to Paris). I was ready for lunch and afternoon appointments. Traveling
by jet, via airports & waiting lounges, and getting from downtown to
downtown would have taken almost as long to go the equivalent distance
in any country but with a lot more hassle. And did I mention the resource
savings? Japan inaugurated the first shinkansen trains in 1964. Some countries,
including mine, still have a long way to go to catch up.
E-mail: paul@zzz.com
(...total length is about 45 pages; 165k uncompressed, or 65k compressed...)
A couple of generations ago, Kokichi Mikimoto (1858-1954) was one of the
most famous Japanese persons of his time, known around the world. Largely
forgotten today, he was a pioneer in Japanese innovation, product development,
and successful exportation. (There is currently no English biography of
his life in print, it's a pity). In the late nineteenth century Japan was
still reeling from its forced recognition of the Western powers (begun
when "black" American naval vessels showed up in Tokyo Bay in 1853). One
day in the 1870's a British vessel suddenly appeared in the waters just
off Mikimoto's hometown. Everyone was afraid except for this quick thinking
young man who borrowed a small rowboat and swiftly loaded it with fresh
fruits and vegetables. While his neighbors stood paralyzed on shore, he
rowed out to the big ship and began juggling the produce from his rowboat
below. The sailors watched him and laughed. Then for the next couple of
months the crew bought all of their fresh produce via this intrepid young
man who had shown such independent, brave thinking. He had reasoned that
they must have been at sea for some time and if approached positively with
welcome provisions, they would respond positively. They did and he made
a lot of money that season. On another occasion he was traveling on the
famous walking road (Tokkaido) which connected Japan's major urban centers.
In the mountains he came upon a man who needed first aid. Mikimoto gave
him the attention he needed before going on. This made national news; he
had given help to a complete stranger, an outsider, without expecting later
compensation or incurred obligation, i.e. he cared.
--- BUSINESS & CULTURE, PART II ---
One day in the summer of 1994 I was sitting with two Japanese friends while
the evening news was on. It had been announced that a major Japanese discounter
was about to import low cost American watermelons to help satisfy domestic
demand. He was bypassing the (ab)normal distribution channels, and altogether
this incident set off a round of heated controversy. On TV we watched the
reporter with a farmer in his field with round Japanese-variety watermelons
(about basketball size) all around them. There on camera we saw them approach
and cut the vine for a particular badly overgrown Japanese watermelon.
It was oblong and somewhat "American size" but like any fruit or vegetable,
if you overgrow or under grow a crop it's never as good come harvest time.
(Call me cynical, but I've seen too many of these ridiculous TV "proofs"
over here.) The same watermelon is carried whole into their studio. And
then right there, during the broadcast, they put it and a standard size
Japanese watermelon side by side. They cut them both open revealing the
fruit and smiled, the supposed evidence there in hand. What was most interesting
to me was the reaction of my two friends. One had spent time in the US,
the other hadn't. The untraveled friend didn't like the look of the rigged
"American-like" melon at all. The other friend was surprised, remarking
that regular (real) American watermelons tasted good and didn't look that
bad inside.
--- JAPANESE TV ---
Lifetime employment means narrower specialization of individuals and skills.
Is this good? How can a group do effective brainstorming for example if
every member of the accepted group has a common background? Distilled corporate
cultures. The older generation is now retiring. Younger Japanese are assuming
the titles but think about how they got there. A certain subset of the
male half of the population who went to all the right schools and passed
all the right (book learned) tests and who were then consequently thrust
into all the right government ministries and large corporations immediately
after graduation is now being given the keys to Japan's future. Getting
good test scores and winning turf battles in office politics is different
from having a decent amount of common sense to draw from, believe me.
--- GOVERNMENT ---
To start a legal Japanese corporation costs thousands of dollars and requires
a lawyer. I considered this option, but opted to incorporate in Oregon,
1 piece of paper, waiting only a couple of weeks and costing less than
$100 US altogether. I then ventured to open a branch office of my new company
in Japan. My Japanese associate and I spent one long day being shuffled
between every conceivable government office in downtown Tokyo. After they
were trying to refer us back to offices we'd already visited once - it
seemed that something was definitely wrong. Maybe even they didn't know;
maybe the objective was to get the foreigner to leave, making it someone
else's problem. It was late afternoon before we finally got to the right
office, back in the borough I live in (i.e. where the branch office would
be located). But at this dusty old local government office, 3 years ago,
they handed us a big book to look through. There were 26 pages of small
typed complicated legal regulations, and my Japanese associate, who holds
a master's degree, said that it looked too difficult to do without a lawyer.
At one point during this I happened to notice them across the room looking
at us and laughing about something. It was unbelievable, such unprofessional
behavior in the first place, and such ridiculous (lawyer employment guaranteed)
requirements in the second. With a clear idea of what I wanted to do but
only limited means it seemed that I had a choice of either fully complying
with their regulations -or- of starting up business. I had to make some
painful decisions.
--- TOKYO CENTRAL, INC. ---
If I visited Australia and loved it I might say something like, "I had
a nice time and it was interesting, but sometimes the kangaroos hopped
around too much." If a Japanese person visited Australia and hated it s/he
might say something like, "I had a nice time and it was interesting, but
sometimes the kangaroos hopped around too much." Slight criticism (or sarcasm
or just being honest) is often blown way out of proportion in Japan. Criticism
indicates a break in harmony. I can recall numerous times when I've expressed
a slight preference or hesitation and later a Japanese associate would
suddenly rise up in defense of the presumed importance, when my own feelings
on the subject were not strong enough to warrant it. Remember this in situations
when you make a small joke about the food (oh, you don't like it at all?!)
or are in a business meeting and the other party sounds very close except
for one minor point. The "minor point" may be a polite way of stalling
over something much larger or it could relate to something completely different.
Have patience and try to get your interpreter on your side. Give him/her
pen and paper and ask ahead of time for the person to make notes of anything
which should be explained to you later outside of the meeting. Before any
speech go over any technical terms or planned jokes (they're the hardest
to interpret) and never publicly humiliate your interpreter by saying,
"I don't know if this can be translated or not but...." Is the interpreter
a part of your in-group or not? How could someone exclude an important
part of their own team? The quality of interpreting may fall dramatically
after such an incident.
--- MISC. CONCLUSIONS ---
Group consensus which is not first based on objective reality is like an
aircraft carrier guided by an old compass and having no anchor. It could
drift anywhere given enough time. As long as Japan stays "under" the US
it shouldn't stray too far from reality, but I fear the day when Japan
has had enough of America's reported bullying and victimizing of Japanese
citizens. There's a Japanese media tripwire out there which lies in wait
for what you could call human rights abuses of Japanese by Americans. It's
a very effective strategy. Every time so far the US has reeled in painful
response. Forget the idea of America and Japan ever being equal, that's
a fiction wishfully maintained by the Western media today. Remember that
you read that here first, and mark my words. Maintaining surface harmony
with other nations is important but below the surface, behind the "tatemae"
(false honesty) words, Japan is saying "No" more and more.
--- LAST FINAL CONCLUSIONS ---
Paul Abramson
This is the end of, JAPAN: COPE,
---> Japan: a Country On Planet Earth, 3rd Edition
= = = = = = = = =